English

On the energetics of breaking inception and onset in surface gravity waves

Fluid Dynamics 2020-08-04 v1

Abstract

Accurate prediction of the onset and strength of breaking surface gravity waves is a long-standing problem of significant theoretical and applied interest. Recently, Barth\'el\'emy et al (https://doi.org/10.1017/jfm.2018.93) examined the energetics of focusing wave groups in deep and intermediate depth water and found that breaking and non-breaking regimes were clearly separated by the normalised energy flux, BB, near the crest tip. Furthermore, the transition of BB through a generic breaking threshold value Bth0.85B_\mathrm{th} \approx 0.85 was found to precede visible breaking onset by up to one fifth of a wave period. This remarkable generic threshold for breaking inception has since been validated numerically for 2D and 3D domains and for shallow and shoaling water waves; however, there is presently no theoretical explanation for its efficacy as a predictor for breaking. This study investigates the correspondence between the parameter BB and the crest energy growth rate following the evolving crest for breaking and non-breaking waves in a numerical wave tank using a range of wave packet configurations. Our results indicate that the time rate of change of the BB is strongly correlated with the energy density convergence rate at the evolving wave crest. These findings further advance present understanding of the elusive process of wave breaking.

Keywords

Cite

@article{arxiv.2008.00633,
  title  = {On the energetics of breaking inception and onset in surface gravity waves},
  author = {Daniel G. Boettger and Michael L. Banner and Xavier Barthélémy and Shane R. Keating and Russel P. Morison},
  journal= {arXiv preprint arXiv:2008.00633},
  year   = {2020}
}