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Distributions of wave characteristics of ocean waves, such as wave slope, waveheight or wavelength, are an important tool in a variety of oceanographic applications such as safety of ocean structures or in the study of ship stability, as…

Probability · Mathematics 2008-12-18 Sofia Aberg , Igor Rychlik , M. Ross Leadbetter

Nonlinear wave interactions affect the evolution of steep wave groups, their breaking and the associated kinematic field. Laboratory experiments are performed to investigate the effect of the underlying focussing mechanism on the shape of…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2018-03-05 Alberto Alberello , Amin Chabchoub , Jason Monty , Filippo Nelli , Jung Lee , John Elsnab , Alessandro Toffoli

The description of gravity waves propagating on the water surface is considered from a historical point of view, with specific emphasis on the development of a theoretical framework and equations of motion for long waves in shallow water.…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2022-03-30 Tomas Torsvik , Ahmed Abdalazeez , Denys Dutykh , Petr Denissenko , Ira Didenkulova

Rogue waves in birefringent optical fibers are analyzed within the framework of the coupled nonlinear Schr\"odinger (CNLS) system. The generation of rogue waves is frequently associated with modulation instability (MI). It is commonly…

Pattern Formation and Solitons · Physics 2016-07-08 Mark J. Ablowitz , Theodoros P. Horikis

The presence of refractive index fluctuations in an optical medium can result in the generation of optical rogue waves. Using numerical simulations and statistical analysis, we have shown that the probability of optical rogue waves…

Optics · Physics 2019-05-22 Mostafa Peysokhan , John Keeney , Arash Mafi

The processes that generate rogue waves on the sea surface remain a mystery. Despite their different natures, the nonlinear bending waves generated in a thin elastic plate share some similarities with waves on the surface of the sea. For…

Chaotic Dynamics · Physics 2025-07-17 Murukesh Muralidhar , Antoine Naert , Sébastien Aumaître

We introduce a novel family of analytic solutions of the three-wave resonant interaction equations to the purpose of modeling unique events, i.e. "amplitude peaks" which are isolated in space and time. The description of these solutions is…

Exactly Solvable and Integrable Systems · Physics 2013-09-18 Fabio Baronio , Matteo Conforti , Antonio Degasperis , Sara Lombardo

An experimental study is reported of the near-critical reflection of internal gravity waves over sloping topography in a stratified fluid. An overturning instability close to the slope and triggering the boundary-mixing process is observed…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2007-05-23 Thierry Dauxois , Anthony Didier , Eric Falcon

The evolution of crossing sea states and the emergence of rogue waves in such systems are studied via numerical simulations performed using a higher order spectral method to solve the free surface Euler equations with a flat bottom. Two…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2019-02-14 J. Brennan , J. M. Dudley , F. Dias

To analyze seismic wave propagation in geological structures, it is possible to consider various numerical approaches: the finite difference method, the spectral element method, the boundary element method, the finite element method, the…

Geophysics · Physics 2011-08-18 Jean-François Semblat

The problem of the sea wave runup on a beach is discussed in the framework of the rigorous solutions of the nonlinear shallow-water theory. Key and novel moment here is the accounting of the asymmetric waves when the face slope steepness…

Pattern Formation and Solitons · Physics 2009-11-11 I. Didenkulova , N. Zahibo , A. Kurkin , B. Levin , E. Pelinovsky , T. Soomere

We show experimentally that a stable wave propagating into a region characterized by an opposite current may become modulationaly unstable. Experiments have been performed in two independent wave tank facilities; both of them are equipped…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2014-07-30 A. Toffoli , T. Waseda , H. Houtani , T. Kinoshita , K. Collins , D. Proment , M. Onorato

Formation of giant waves in sea states with two spectral maxima, centered at close wave vectors ${\bf k}_0\pm\Delta {\bf k}/2$ in the Fourier plane, is numerically simulated using the fully nonlinear model for long-crested water waves [V.…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2015-05-13 V. P. Ruban

We investigate experimentally the statistical properties of a wind-generated wave field and the spontaneous formation of rogue waves in an annular flume. Unlike many experiments on rogue waves, where waves are mechanically generated, here…

Using the inverse spectral theory of the nonlinear Schrodinger (NLS) equation we correlate the development of rogue waves in oceanic sea states characterized by the JONSWAP spectrum with the proximity to homoclinic solutions of the NLS…

Pattern Formation and Solitons · Physics 2007-05-23 Constance Schober , Alvaro Islas

Spiral density waves can arise in galactic disks as linear instabilities of the underlying stellar distribution function. Such an instability grows exponentially in amplitude at some fixed growth rate $\beta$ before saturating nonlinearly.…

Astrophysics of Galaxies · Physics 2024-01-29 Chris Hamilton

Two-dimensional potential flow of the ideal incompressible fluid with free surface and infinite depth can be described by a conformal map of the fluid domain into the complex lower half-plane. Stokes wave is the fully nonlinear gravity wave…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2014-07-03 S. A. Dyachenko , P. M. Lushnikov , A. O. Korotkevich

Here we show that the distribution of internal gravity waves energy over a patch of seabed corrugations strongly depends on the "distance" of the patch to adjacent seafloor features. Specifically, we consider the energy distribution over a…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2017-08-02 F. Karimpour , A. Zareei , M. -R. Alam

We explore the near-resonant interaction of inertial waves with geostrophic modes in rotating fluids via numerical and theoretical analysis. When a single inertial wave is imposed, we find that some geostrophic modes are unstable above a…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2020-08-26 Thomas Le Reun , Basile Gallet , Benjamin Favier , Michael Le Bars

The initial value problem is solved for the excitation of long surface gravity waves in a continuously sheared flow. This reveals the presence of a continuous spectrum along side the standard normal modes of gravity wave propagation. An…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2025-11-04 Jeffrey R. Carpenter
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