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We report direct observations of surface waves from a stereo camera system along with concurrent measurements of wind speed during an expedition across the Southern Ocean in the austral winter aboard South African icebreaker…

A new highly efficient method is developed for computation of traveling periodic waves (Stokes waves) on the free surface of deep water. A convergence of numerical approximation is determined by the complex singularites above the free…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2019-04-02 Pavel M. Lushnikov , Sergey A. Dyachenko , Denis A. Silantyev

No surface is perfectly planar at all scales. The notion of flatness of a surface therefore depends on the size of the probe used to observe it. As a consequence rough interfaces are abundant in nature. Here the old, but still active field…

Statistical Mechanics · Physics 2007-05-23 Ingve Simonsen

The generation of rogue waves is investigated via a nonlocal nonlinear Schrodinger (NLS) equation. In this system, modulation instability is suppressed and is usually expected that rogue wave formation would also be limited. On the…

Pattern Formation and Solitons · Physics 2017-04-26 Theodoros P. Horikis , Mark J. Ablowitz

Refraction is the predominant mechanism causing spatially inhomogeneous surface gravity wave fields. However, the complex interplay between depth- and current-induced wave refraction remains poorly understood. Assuming weak currents and…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2025-09-17 Trygve Halsne , Yan Li

We introduce a new model equation for Stokes gravity waves based on conformal transformations of Euler's equations. The local version of the model equation is relevant for dynamics of shallow water waves. It allows us to characterize the…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2024-12-03 Spencer Locke , Dmitry E. Pelinovsky

Numerical simulations are used to discuss various aspects of "optical rogue wave" statistics observed in noise-driven fiber supercontinuum generation associated with highly incoherent spectra. In particular, we consider how long wavelength…

Optics · Physics 2015-05-19 Miro Erkintalo , Goëry Genty , John M. Dudley

This is a study of the Euler equations for free surface water waves in the case of varying bathymetry, considering the problem in the shallow water scaling regime. In the case of rapidly varying periodic bottom boundaries this is a problem…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2016-01-20 Walter Craig , David Lannes , Catherine Sulem

Coastal erosion describes the displacement of land caused by destructive sea waves, currents or tides. Major efforts have been made to mitigate these effects using groynes, breakwaters and various other structures. We address this problem…

Optimization and Control · Mathematics 2022-07-28 Luka Schlegel , Volker Schulz

Global observations of ocean swell, from satellite Synthetic Aperture Radar data, are used to estimate the dissipation of swell energy for a number of storms. Swells can be very persistent with energy e-folding scales exceeding 20,000 km.…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2009-11-13 Fabrice Ardhuin , Bertrand Chapron , Fabrice Collard

Ocean rogue waves (RW) -huge solitary waves- have for long triggered the interest of scientists. RWs emerge in a complex environment and it is still dubious the importance of linear versus nonlinear processes. Recent works have demonstrated…

Optics · Physics 2016-02-05 M. Mattheakis , I. J. Pitsios , G. P. Tsironis , S. Tzortzakis

Spectrograms provide an efficient way to analyse surface elevation signals of ship waves taken from a sensor fixed at a single point in space. Recent work based on a simplified model for the ship's disturbance suggests that matching the…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2021-10-20 Ravindra Pethiyagoda , Timothy J Moroney , Gregor J Macfarlane , Scott W McCue

In this paper we investigate the qualitative behaviour of the pressure function beneath an extreme Stokes wave over infinite depth. The presence of a stagnation point at the wave-crest of an extreme Stokes wave introduces a number of…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2016-03-23 Tony Lyons

The shearing sheet model of a galactic disk is studied anew. The theoretical description of its dynamics is based on three building blocks: Stellar orbits, which are described here in epicyclic approximation, the collisionless Boltzmann…

Astrophysics · Physics 2009-10-31 B. Fuchs

Irregular waves which experience the time-limited external forcing within the framework of the nonlinear Schrodinger (NLS) equation are studied numerically. It is shown that the adiabatically slow pumping (the time scale of forcing is much…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2017-03-17 Alexey Slunyaev , Anna Sergeeva , Efim Pelinovsky

In this presentation, we analytically derive the dispersion equation for surface waves traveling along reactive boundaries which are periodically modulated in time. In addition, we show numerical results for the dispersion curves and…

Optics · Physics 2021-08-03 Xuchen Wang , Mohammad S. Mirmoosa , Sergei A. Tretyakov

Oceanic geostrophic turbulence is mostly forced at the surface, yet strong bottom-trapped flows are commonly observed along topographic anomalies. Here we consider the case of a freely evolving, initially surface-intensified velocity field…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2015-06-04 Antoine Venaille

Rogue waves (RWs) are unexpectedly strong excitations emerging from an otherwise tranquil background. The nonlinear Schr\"odinger equation (NLSE), a ubiquitous model with wide applications to fluid mechanics, optics and plasmas, exhibits…

Pattern Formation and Solitons · Physics 2016-01-07 H. N. Chan , B. A. Malomed , K. W. Chow , E. Ding

Freak waves, or rogue waves, are one of the fascinating manifestations of the strength of nature. These devastating walls of water appear from nowhere, are short-lived and extremely rare. Despite the large amount of research activities on…

With the aim of assessing internal wave-driven mixing in the ocean, we develop a new technique for direct numerical simulations of stratified turbulence. Since the spatial scale of oceanic internal gravity waves is typically much larger…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2021-04-07 Y. Onuki , S. Joubaud , T. Dauxois
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