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Formation of giant waves in sea states with two spectral maxima, centered at close wave vectors ${\bf k}_0\pm\Delta {\bf k}/2$ in the Fourier plane, is numerically simulated using the fully nonlinear model for long-crested water waves [V.…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2015-05-13 V. P. Ruban

We investigate experimentally the statistical properties of a wind-generated wave field and the spontaneous formation of rogue waves in an annular flume. Unlike many experiments on rogue waves, where waves are mechanically generated, here…

The processes that generate rogue waves on the sea surface remain a mystery. Despite their different natures, the nonlinear bending waves generated in a thin elastic plate share some similarities with waves on the surface of the sea. For…

Chaotic Dynamics · Physics 2025-07-17 Murukesh Muralidhar , Antoine Naert , Sébastien Aumaître

We experimentally study resonant interactions of oblique surface gravity waves in a large basin. Our results strongly extend previous experimental results performed mainly for perpendicular or collinear wave trains. We generate two oblique…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2016-09-13 F. Bonnefoy , F. Haudin , G. Michel , B. Semin , T. Humbert , S. Aumaître , M. Berhanu , E. Falcon

The numerical simulation of the nonlinear dynamics of the sea surface has shown that the collision of two groups of relatively low waves with close but noncollinear wave vectors (two or three waves in each group with a steepness of about…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2016-02-12 V. P. Ruban

The evolution of surface gravity waves is driven by nonlinear interactions that trigger an energy cascade similarly to the one observed in hydrodynamic turbulence. This process, known as wave turbulence, has been found to display anomalous…

Based on data from the Japan Sea and the North Sea the occurrence of rogue waves is analyzed by a scale dependent stochastic approach, which interlinks fluctuations of waves for different spacings. With this approach we are able to…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2018-03-14 Ali Hadjihoseini , Pedro G. Lind , Nobuhito Mori , Norbert P. Hoffmann , Joachim Peinke

Rogue waves are an intriguing nonlinear phenomenon arising across different scales, ranging from ocean waves through optics to Bose-Einstein condensates. We describe the emergence of rogue-like wave dynamics in a reaction-diffusion system…

Pattern Formation and Solitons · Physics 2024-05-27 Edgar Knobloch , Arik Yochelis

We review the study of rogue waves and related instabilities in optical and oceanic environments, with particular focus on recent experimental developments. In optics, we emphasize results arising from the use of real-time measurement…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2019-12-24 J. M. Dudley , G. Genty , A. Mussot , A. Chabchoub , F. Dias

Numerical simulations of the recently derived fully nonlinear equations of motion for weakly three-dimensional water waves [V.P. Ruban, Phys. Rev. E {\bf 71}, 055303(R) (2005)] with quasi-random initial conditions are reported, which show…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2009-11-11 Victor P. Ruban

Rogue waves are extreme ocean events characterized by the sudden formation of anomalously large crests, and remain an important subject of investigation in oceanography and mathematics. A central problem is to quantify the probability of…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2026-03-31 Massimiliano Berti , Ricardo Grande , Alberto Maspero , Gigliola Staffilani

A statistical theory of rogue waves is proposed and tested against experimental data collected in a long water tank where random waves with different degrees of nonlinearity are mechanically generated and free to propagate along the flume.…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2019-12-25 Giovanni Dematteis , Tobias Grafke , Miguel Onorato , Eric Vanden-Eijnden

Ocean rogue waves are large and suddenly appearing surface gravity waves, which may cause severe damage to ships and other maritime structures. Despite years of research, the exact origin of rogue waves is still disputed. Linear…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2015-07-30 Simon Birkholz , Carsten Brée , Ivan Veselić , Ayhan Demircan , Günter Steinmeyer

In this essay we give an overview on the problem of rogue or freak wave formation in the ocean. The matter of the phenomenon is a sporadic occurrence of unexpectedly high waves on the sea surface. These waves cause serious danger for…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2017-03-30 Alexey Slunyaev , Ira Didenkulova , Efim Pelinovsky

Recent results of numerical simulations of fully nonlinear evolutionary equations for long-crested deep-water waves are discussed, where formation of extreme waves was observed. Several examples demonstrate that three-dimensionality of the…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2011-08-19 V. P. Ruban

Rogue waves are associated with various ocean processes, both at the coast and in the open ocean. In either zone, inhomogeneities in the wave field caused by shoaling, crossing seas or current interactions disturb wave statistics,…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2025-06-11 Saulo Mendes , Ina Teutsch , Jérôme Kasparian

Rogue waves are extreme and rare fluctuations of the wave field that have been discussed in many physical systems. Their presence substantially influences the statistical properties of an incoherent wave field. Their understanding is…

Pattern Formation and Solitons · Physics 2018-01-24 Rebecca El Koussaifi , Alexey Tikan , Alessandro Toffoli , Stephane Randoux , Pierre Suret , Miguel Onorato

Rogue wave formation and enhancement over coastal areas have been documented over the last decade. However, this recent knowledge is in apparent contradiction with the established observation of sub-Gaussian wave statistics near shallow…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2025-02-07 Saulo Mendes , Yuchen He , Jérôme Kasparian , Amin Chabchoub

Rogue waves (RWs) can form on the ocean surface due to quasi-four wave resonant interaction or superposition principle. Both mechanisms have been acutely studied. The first of the two is known as the nonlinear focusing mechanism and leads…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2024-05-21 Yuchen He , Jinghua Wang , Jingsong He , Ye Li , Xingya Feng , Amin Chabchoub

We study the statistical properties of an ensemble of weak gravitational waves interacting nonlinearly in a flat space-time. We show that the resonant three-wave interactions are absent and develop a theory for four-wave interactions in a…

General Relativity and Quantum Cosmology · Physics 2017-12-06 S. Galtier , S. V. Nazarenko
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