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Related papers: Wind-Induced Changes to Surface Gravity Wave Shape…

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Unforced shoaling waves experience growth and changes to wave shape. Similarly, wind-forced waves on a flat-bottom likewise experience growth/decay and changes to wave shape. However, the combined effect of shoaling and wind-forcing on wave…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2022-07-15 Thomas Zdyrski , Falk Feddersen

Wave shape (i.e. skewness or asymmetry) plays an important role in beach morphology evolution, remote sensing, and ship safety. Wind's influence on ocean waves has been extensively studied theoretically in the context of growth, but most…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2020-10-02 Thomas Zdyrski , Falk Feddersen

In recent papers, denoted by MG24, MG25 in this text, we used the Korteweg-de Vries (KdV) equation and its two-dimensional extension, the Kadomtsev-Petviashvili (KP) equation to describe the evolution of wind-driven water wave packets in…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2025-06-03 Montri Maleewong , Roger Grimshaw

Nonlinear wave-induced perturbations are discussed within the framework of the second-order theory. Due to the slow attenuation of the long perturbations with depth, they modulate motions beneath surface waves down to the bottom and can…

Geophysics · Physics 2025-08-11 Alexey V. Slunyaev , Anna V. Kokorina

In 1895, Korteweg and de Vries (KdV), derived their celebrated equation describing the motion of waves of long wavelength in shallow water. In doing so they made a number of quite reasonable assumptions, incompressibility of the water and…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2020-04-15 Matthew Hunt , Denys Dutykh

Wind-wave interaction involves wind forcing on wave surface and wave effects on the turbulent wind structures, which essentially influences the wind and wave loading on structures. Existing research on wind-wave interaction modeling ignores…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2022-06-07 Tianqi Ma , Chao Sun

The generation of ocean surface waves by wind is a classic fluid mechanics problem whose theoretical study dates back to 1957, when the two seminal papers by Phillips and Miles were published in the incipient Journal of Fluid Mechanics.…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2023-02-17 Tianyi Li , Lian Shen

Numerical simulations of the unidirectional random waves are performed within the Korteweg -de Vries equation to investigate the statistical properties of surface gravity waves in shallow water. Nonlinear evolution shows the relaxation of…

Exactly Solvable and Integrable Systems · Physics 2007-05-23 Anna Kokorina , Efim Pelinovsky

Effect of surface tension reduction on wind-wave growth is investigated using direct numerical simulation (DNS) of air-water two-phase turbulent flow. The incompressible Navier-Stokes equations for air and water sides are solved using an…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2023-04-13 Keigo Matsuda , Satoru Komori , Naohisa Takagaki , Ryo Onishi

The propagation of surface water waves interacting with a current and an uneven bottom is studied. Such a situation is typical for ocean waves where the winds generate currents in the top layer of the ocean. The role of the bottom…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2019-02-19 Alan C. Compelli , Rossen I. Ivanov , Calin I. Martin , Michail D. Todorov

Particles such as microplastics and phytoplankton suspended in the water column in the natural environment are often subject to the action of surface gravity waves. By modelling such anisotropic particles as small spheroids that slowly…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2023-08-03 Nimish Pujara , Jean-Luc Thiffeault

We investigate wind wave growth by direct numerical simulations solving for the two phase Navier-Stokes equations. We consider ratio of the wave speed $c$ to wind friction velocity $u_*$ from $c/u_*=$ 2 to 8, i.e. in the slow to…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2022-11-08 Jiarong Wu , Stéphane Popinet , Luc Deike

Wind-wave interactions impose wind forcing on wave surface and wave effects on turbulent wind structures, which essentially influences the wind-wave loading on structures. Existing research treats the wind and wave loading separately and…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2023-10-06 Tianqi Ma , Chao Sun

This paper considers the propagation of shallow-water solitary and nonlinear periodic waves over a gradual slope with bottom friction in the framework of a variable-coefficient Korteweg-de Vries equation. We use the Whitham averaging…

Pattern Formation and Solitons · Physics 2007-09-23 G. A. El , R. H. J. Grimshaw , A. M. Kamchatnov

Regularizing effects of surface tension are studied for interfacial waves between a two-dimensional, infinitely-deep and irrotational flow of water and vacuum. The water wave problem under the influence of surface tension is formulated as a…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2012-10-02 Vera Mikyoung Hur

Wind farms, particularly offshore clusters, are becoming larger than ever before. Besides influencing wind farms and local meteorology downstream, large wind farms can trigger atmospheric gravity waves in the inversion layer and the free…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2024-03-29 Mehtab Ahmed Khan , Dries Allaerts , Simon Watson , Matthew Churchfield

We report experimental observations of two canonical surface wave patterns --- ship waves and ring waves --- skewed by sub-surface shear, thus confirming effects predicted by recent theory. Observed ring waves on a still surface with…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2019-08-12 Benjamin K. Smeltzer , Eirik Æsøy , Simen Å. Ellingsen

The evolution of surface gravity waves is driven by nonlinear interactions that trigger an energy cascade similarly to the one observed in hydrodynamic turbulence. This process, known as wave turbulence, has been found to display anomalous…

Modern day studies of wind-driven sea waves are usually focused on wind forcing rather than on the effect of resonant nonlinear wave interactions. The authors assume that these effects are dominating and propose a simple relationship…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2016-07-20 Vladimir E. Zakharov , Sergei I. Badulin , Paul A. Hwang , Guillemette Caulliez

A simple analytical model is developed for the current induced by the wind and modified by surface wind-waves in the oceanic surface layer, based on a first-order turbulence closure and including the effect of a vortex force representing…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2018-12-05 Miguel A. C. Teixeira
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