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An asymmetric body with a sharp leading edge and a rounded trailing edge produces a smaller wave disturbance moving forwards than backwards, and this is reflected in the wave drag coefficient. This experimental fact is not captured by…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2019-10-02 GP Benham , JP Boucher , R Labbe , M Benzaquen , C Clanet

Diving induces large pressures during water entry, accompanied by the creation of cavity and water splash ejected from the free water surface. To minimize impact forces, divers streamline their shape at impact. Here, we investigate the…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2017-08-10 Lionel Vincent , Tingben Xiao , Daniel Yohann , Sunghwan Jung , Eva Kanso

Recent laboratory experiments of Bolles et al. (2019) demonstrate that an abrupt change in bottom topography can trigger anomalous statistics in randomized surface waves. Motivated by these observations, Majda et al. (2019) developed a…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2020-01-07 M. N. J. Moore , C. Tyler Bolles , Andrew J. Majda , Di Qi

Measuring the directional distribution of ocean waves is a difficult task in ocean wave research. For many decades, wind-generated waves are assumed to propagate primarily in the wind direction. The concept is applied either implicitly or…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2019-07-03 Paul A. Hwang , David W. Wang , James Yungel , Robert N. Swift , William B. Krabill

Experimental and theoretical studies on wind-wave generation have focused primarily on the air-water interface, where viscous effects are small. Here we characterize the influence of the liquid viscosity on the growth of mechanically…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2023-10-13 J. Zhang , A. Hector , M. Rabaud , F. Moisy

We develop a weakly nonlinear model to study the spatiotemporal manifestation and the dynamical behavior of surface waves in the presence of an underlying interfacial solitary wave in a two-layer fluid system. We show that interfacial…

Pattern Formation and Solitons · Physics 2019-07-29 Shixiao W. Jiang , Gregor Kovačič , Douglas Zhou

The breaking of detailed balance in fluids through Coriolis forces or odd-viscous stresses has profound effects on the dynamics of surface waves. Here we explore both weakly and strongly non-linear waves in a three-dimensional fluid with…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2025-02-04 Alex Doak , Guido Baardink , Paul A Milewski , Anton Souslov

Wave steepness is a key geometric variable for describing breaking occurrence and its consequences, including energy dissipation and air entrainment. Using three laboratory campaigns under varying spectral conditions and co-flowing wind…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2026-05-29 Rui Cao , Enrique M. Padilla , Xu Chen , Adrian H. Callaghan

Special features of surface gravity waves in deep fluid flow with constant vertical shear of velocity is studied. It is found that the mean flow velocity shear leads to non-trivial modification of surface gravity wave modes dispersive…

Astrophysics · Physics 2016-08-30 G. Gogoberidze , L. Samushia , G. D. Chagelishvili , J. G. Lominadze , W. Horton

This paper addresses deep-water gravity waves of finite amplitude generated by an initial disturbance to the water. It is assumed that the horizontal dimensions of the initially disturbed body of the water are much larger than the magnitude…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2014-08-20 Ilia M. Mindlin

We investigate experimentally the early stage of the generation of waves by a turbulent wind at the surface of a viscous liquid. The spatio-temporal structure of the surface deformation is analyzed by the optical method Free Surface…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2020-12-09 Anna Paquier , Frederic Moisy , Marc Rabaud

The original investigation of Lamb (1932, {\S}349) for the effect of viscosity on monochromatic surface waves is extended to account for second-order Stokes surface waves on deep water in the presence of surface tension. This extension is…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2017-04-11 S. G. Sajjadi

We examine the linear stability of a shear flow driven by wind stress at the free surface and rotation at the lower boundary, mimicking oceanic flows influenced by surface winds and rotation of Earth. The linearised eigenvalue problem is…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2025-11-21 S. Preethi , Ankush Kamboj , Ramkarn Patne , P. A. L. Narayana , Kirti Chandra Sahu

This work is an analytical investigation of the evolution of surface water waves in Miles and Jeffreys theories of wind wave interaction in water of finite depth. The present review is divided into two major parts. The first corresponds to…

Pattern Formation and Solitons · Physics 2024-08-07 A. Latifi , M. A. Manna , R. A. Kraenkel

Our aim is to study the effect of a continuous prescribed density variation on the propagation of ocean waves. More precisely, we derive KdV-type shallow water model equations for unidirectional flows along the Equator from the full…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2018-10-29 Anna Geyer , Ronald Quirchmayr

The currents in the ocean have a serious impact on ocean dynamics, since they affect the transport of mass and thus the distribution of salinity, nutrients and pollutants. In many physically important situations the current depends…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2024-10-22 Conor Curtin , Rossen Ivanov

An alternative way for the derivation of the new KdV-type equation is presented. The equation contains terms depending on the bottom topography (there are six new terms in all, three of which are caused by the unevenness of the bottom). It…

Pattern Formation and Solitons · Physics 2014-08-19 Anna Karczewska , Piotr Rozmej , Eryk Infeld

Understanding how submerged vegetation modifies the water surface is crucial for modeling momentum exchange between shallow waters and the atmosphere. In particular, quantifying its impact on the equivalent aerodynamic roughness of the…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2026-01-26 Giulio Foggi Rota , Alessandro Chiarini , Marco Edoardo Rosti

Inhomogeneity generated waves, discovered more than a decade ago, play an important role in processes like energy transfer, turbulence generation, heating, etc. To understand the nature of these waves we developed the formalism that looks…

Plasma Physics · Physics 2019-03-14 Edisher Kaghashvili

The goal of this note is to provide a theoretical explanation for the saturation of the drag coefficient in strong wind conditions. The hydrodynamic model under consideration takes into account the important effects of airborne droplets of…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2022-12-12 Michael Stiassnie , David Andrade