Related papers: Extreme Wave Runup on a Steep Coastal Profile
Elucidating the statistical properties of extreme meteo-climatic events and capturing the physical processes responsible for their occurrence are key steps for improving our understanding of climate variability and climate change and for…
Statistical physics and dynamical systems theory are key tools to study high-impact geophysical events such as temperature extremes, cyclones, thunderstorms, geomagnetic storms and many more. Despite the intrinsic differences between these…
During motion from deep to shallow water, multiple equilibria may emerge, each with identical drag - a phenomenon that can be explained by a localised amplification of the wave drag near the shallow wave speed. The implication of this is…
We use well-resolved direct numerical simulations of high-Reynolds-number turbulence to study a fundamental statistical property of turbulence -- the asymmetry of velocity increments -- with likely implications on important dynamics. This…
There is a clear distinction between simple laminar and complex turbulent fluids. But in some cases, as for the nocturnal planetary boundary layer, a stable and well-ordered flow can develop intense and sporadic bursts of turbulent activity…
Metocean extremes often vary systematically with covariates such as direction and season. In this work, we present non-stationary models for the size and rate of occurrence of peaks over threshold of metocean variables with respect to one-…
To accurately predict the consequences of nearshore waves, coastal engineers often employ numerical models. A variety of these models, broadly classified as either phase-resolving or phase-averaged, exist; each with strengths and…
The evolution of random wave fields on the free surface is a complex process which is not completely understood nowadays. For the sake of simplicity in this study we will restrict our attention to the 2D physical problems only (i.e. 1D wave…
Rogue waves are known to occur on the ocean surface leading to significant damage to marine installations and compromising ship safety. Understanding the physical mechanisms responsible for extreme wave focusing is crucial in order to…
Coastal erosion describes the displacement of land caused by destructive sea waves, currents or tides. Major efforts have been made to mitigate these effects using groynes, breakwaters and various other structures. We address this problem…
Studies agree on a significant global mean sea level rise in the 20th century and its recent 21st century acceleration in the satellite record. At regional scale, the evolution of sea level probability distributions is often assumed to be…
We consider the statistics of extreme ship motions in a nonlinear irregular wave field. While an accurate computation is possible by using a full Monte-Carlo method to cover all individual wave conditions, the computational cost may become…
In this paper, we study the effects of correlated random phases in the intensity of a superposition of $N$ wave-fields. Our results suggest that regardless of whether the phase distribution is continuous or discrete if the phases are random…
Models for extreme values accommodating non-stationarity have been amply studied and evaluated from a parametric perspective. Whilst these models are flexible, in the sense that many parametrizations can be explored, they assume an…
The last decade has seen numerous record-shattering heatwaves in all corners of the globe. In the aftermath of these devastating events, there is interest in identifying worst-case thresholds or upper bounds that quantify just how hot…
Long linear wave transformation in the basin of varying depth is studied for a case of a convex bottom profile in the framework of one-dimensional shallow water equation. The existence of travelling wave solutions in this geometry and the…
In this work, we report the emergence of extreme events in a damped and driven velocity-dependent mechanical system. We observe that the extreme events emerge at multiple points. We further notice that the extreme events occur symmetrically…
When assessing the hazard brought by storm surges on the coast, a frequency analysis is often conducted. An issue of particular concern is the sea level rise (SLR), thought to have an impact on maximum water levels. In this study, three…
The description of gravity waves propagating on the water surface is considered from a historical point of view, with specific emphasis on the development of a theoretical framework and equations of motion for long waves in shallow water.…
The degree of predictability of large avalanche events in the directed sandpile model is studied. A waiting time based prediction strategy which exploits the local anticorrelation of large events is discussed. With this strategy we show…