Related papers: Extreme Wave Runup on a Steep Coastal Profile
A new highly efficient method is developed for computation of traveling periodic waves (Stokes waves) on the free surface of deep water. A convergence of numerical approximation is determined by the complex singularites above the free…
We propose a new approach to estimate the causal effects of maritime traffic when natural or policy experiments are not available. We apply this method to the case of Marseille, a large Mediterranean port city, where air pollution emitted…
One measurement modality for rainfall is a fixed location rain gauge. However, extreme rainfall, flooding, and other climate extremes often occur at larger spatial scales and affect more than one location in a community. For example, in…
Sea-level rise poses considerable risks to coastal communities, ecosystems, and infrastructure. Decision makers are faced with uncertain sea-level projections when designing a strategy for coastal adaptation. The traditional methods are…
Turbulent water motions are important for the exchange of momentum, heat, nutrients, and suspended matter including sediments in the deep-sea that is generally stably stratified in density. To maintain ocean-density stratification, an…
Marginally unstable Holmboe modes for smooth density and velocity profiles are studied. For a large family of flows and stratification that exhibit Holmboe instability, we show that the modes with phase velocity equal to the maximum or the…
We compare two methods for making predictions of the climatological distribution of the number of hurricanes making landfall along short sections of the North American coastline. The first method uses local data, and the second method uses…
High-resolution multispectral satellite imagery was utilized to quantify shoreline recession at eleven beaches around Lake Michigan during a record-setting water level increase between 2013 and 2020. Shoreline changes during this period…
In the stably stratified ocean, small-scale turbulence is important for vertical exchange and hence for the mixing of water masses and suspended matter. To observationally study turbulent motions and the buoyancy- and shear-generators…
Extreme-event predictability in turbulence is strongly state dependent, yet event-by-event predictability horizons are difficult to quantify without access to governing equations or costly perturbation ensembles. Here we train an…
Storm surges can give rise to extreme floods in coastal areas. The Norwegian Meteorological Institute produces 120-hour regional operational storm surge forecasts along the coast of Norway based on the Regional Ocean Modeling System (ROMS),…
We use extreme value theory to estimate the probability of successive exceedances of a threshold value of a time-series of an observable on several classes of chaotic dynamical systems. The observables have either a Fr\'echet (fat-tailed)…
The objective of this paper is to employ machine learning (ML) and deep learning (DL) techniques to obtain from input data (storm features) available in or derived from the HURDAT2 database models capable of simulating important hurricane…
Predicting extreme events in nonlinear dynamical systems is challenging due to a limited understanding of their statistical properties. This study numerically and theoretically investigates the statistical properties of infinite-modal maps…
Robust estimators and different filtering techniques are proposed and their impact on the determination of a wide range of turbulence quantities is analysed. High-frequency water level measurements in a stepped spillway are used as a case…
This paper addresses long waves on the water surface. It is assumed that initially the water surface has not yet been displaced from its mean level, but the velocity field has already become different from zero. This means that the motion…
Oceanic geostrophic turbulence is mostly forced at the surface, yet strong bottom-trapped flows are commonly observed along topographic anomalies. Here we consider the case of a freely evolving, initially surface-intensified velocity field…
We investigate the influence of time-varying meteoceanic conditions on coastal flooding under the prism of rare events. Focusing on conditions observed over half tidal cycles, we observe that such data fall within the framework of…
Powerful rogue ocean waves have been objects of fascination for centuries. Elusive and awe-inspiring, with the ability to inflict catastrophic damage, rogue waves remain unpredictable and imperfectly understood. To gain further insight into…
Coastal flooding drives considerable risks to many communities, but projections of future flood risks are deeply uncertain. The paucity of observations of extreme events often motivates the use of statistical approaches to model the…