Related papers: Extreme Wave Runup on a Steep Coastal Profile
Spatial maps of extreme precipitation are a critical component of flood estimation in hydrological modeling, as well as in the planning and design of important infrastructure. This is particularly relevant in countries such as Norway that…
Extreme or rogue waves are large and unexpected waves appearing with higher probability than predicted by Gaussian statistics. Although their formation is explained by both linear and nonlinear wave propagation, nonlinearity has been…
The numerical simulation of the nonlinear dynamics of random sea waves at moderately small Benjamin-Feir indices and its comparison with the linear dynamics (at the coincidence of spatial Fourier harmonics near a spectral peak at a certain…
Bore-bore capture occurs when a faster moving bore captures a slower moving bore whilst both are propagating shoreward in the surf or swash zones. This phenomenon occurs frequently on natural beaches, but has not yet been quantified in the…
The evolution of breaking waves propagating towards the shore and more specifically the run-up phase over the swash-zone for surface as well as for internal waves is considered. The study is based on a) laboratory run up experiments for…
Non-stationary time series modelling is applied to long tidal records from Esbjerg, Denmark, and coupled to climate change projections for sea-level and storminess, to produce projections of likely future sea-level maxima. The model has…
We discuss the effects of the directional spreading on the occurrence of extreme wave events. We numerically integrate the envelope equation recently proposed by Trulsen et al., Phys of Fluids 2000, as a weakly nonlinear model for realistic…
Rainfall in coastal areas of the tropics is often shaped by the presence of circulations directly associated with the topography, such as land-sea and/or mountain-valley breezes. In many regions the coastally-affected rainfall consitutes…
We investigate how the extreme wave statistics of a windsea is modified by a following swell, by means of laboratory experiments and simulations using a High Order Spectral Method (HOSM) of long-crested sea. The windsea spectrum is kept…
Damage cost curves -- relating the typical damage of a natural hazard to its physical magnitude -- represent an indispensable ingredient necessary for climate change impact assessments. Combining such curves with the occurrence probability…
We study the limiting behavior of large-amplitude standing waves on deep water using high-resolution numerical simulations in double and quadruple precision. While periodic traveling waves approach Stokes's sharply crested extreme wave in…
In this work we present a further analytical development and a numerical implementation of the recently suggested theoretical model for highly nonlinear potential long-crested water waves, where weak three-dimensional effects are included…
We construct a family of explicit rotational solutions to the nonlinear governing equations for water waves, describing edge waves propagating over a plane-sloping beach. A detailed analysis of the edge wave dynamics and of the run-up…
Recent studies have shown that, in coastal waters where water depth decreases significantly due to rapid bathymetric changes, the non-equilibrium dynamics (NED) substantially increases the occurrence probability of extreme (rogue) waves.…
Several large scale circulation patterns have been identified in relation to extreme Northern Hemisphere summer heatwaves. Three main ones are a double jet over Eurasia, a positive phase of the summer northern annular mode, and a…
Significant tsunamis in Northern Adriatic are rare and only a few historical events were reported in the literature, with sources mostly located along with central and southern parts of the Adriatic coasts. Recently, a tsunami alert system…
Then detection and identification of extreme weather events in large-scale climate simulations is an important problem for risk management, informing governmental policy decisions and advancing our basic understanding of the climate system.…
Using experimental data from three different rogue wave supporting systems, determinism and predictability of the underlying dynamics are evaluated with methods of nonlinear time series analysis. We included original records from the…
Theoretical studies on the modulation of unidimensional regular waves over a flat bottom due to a current typically assign an asymmetry between the effects of opposing/following streams on the evolution of major sea variables, such as…
Rogue waves are associated with various ocean processes, both at the coast and in the open ocean. In either zone, inhomogeneities in the wave field caused by shoaling, crossing seas or current interactions disturb wave statistics,…