Related papers: Extreme Wave Runup on a Steep Coastal Profile
We report direct observations of surface waves from a stereo camera system along with concurrent measurements of wind speed during an expedition across the Southern Ocean in the austral winter aboard South African icebreaker…
Numerical simulations of fully nonlinear equations of motion for long-crested waves at deep water demonstrate that in elongate wave groups the formation of extreme waves occurs most intensively if in an initial state the wave fronts are…
Event cameras are ideal for object tracking applications due to their ability to capture fast-moving objects while mitigating latency and data redundancy. Existing event-based clustering and feature tracking approaches for surveillance and…
The aim of this note is to examine the efficacy of a recently developed approach to the recovery of nonlinear water waves from pressure measurements at the seabed, by applying it to the celebrated extreme Stokes wave.
The majority of coastal flows are characterized by turbulence, rendering the application of shallow water equations an inadequate approach for their accurate description. This paper presents a theory for characterizing accelerated coastal…
Rogue waves are extreme ocean events characterized by the sudden formation of anomalously large crests, and remain an important subject of investigation in oceanography and mathematics. A central problem is to quantify the probability of…
The runup of tsunami waves on the coasts of the barrow bays, channels and straits is studied in the framework of the nonlinear shallow water theory. Using the narrowness of the water channel, the one-dimensional equations are applied; they…
Over recent decades, the Arctic Ocean has experienced dramatic changes due to climate change. Retreating sea ice has opened up large areas of ocean, resulting in an enhanced wave climate. Taking into account the intense seasonality and the…
The broaching that follows the surf-riding is a dangerous phenomenon that can lead to the capsizing of a vessel due to its violent yaw motion. Most of the previous studies on surf-riding phenomena in irregular waves have been conducted by…
Particularly important to hurricane risk assessment for coastal regions is finding accurate approximations of return probabilities of maximum windspeeds. Since extremes in maximum windspeed have a direct relationship to minimums in the…
The evolution of unidirectional nonlinear sea surface waves is calculated numerically by means of solutions of the Euler equations. The wave dynamics corresponds to quasi-equilibrium states characterized by JONSWAP spectra. The…
Reliable estimates of sea level return levels are crucial for coastal flooding risk assessments and for coastal flood defence design. We describe a novel method for estimating extreme sea levels that is the first to capture seasonality,…
Short-term sea level fluctuations prompted by abrupt atmospheric changes can be hazardous phenomena for coastal regions. We report on two such recent storm surges that occurred in 2020 on the shores of British Columbia, Canada. A rare…
Saltwater intrusion is a critical challenge to coastal ecosystems, impacting freshwater resources, biogeochemical cycles, and habitat stability. While relevant studies often focus on the long-term trends of salinity, its episodic…
While experiencing atmospheric turbulence on a commercial flight can be uncomfortable, it rarely compromises the stability of the aircraft. The situation is quite different for small air vehicles that operate in urban canyons, around…
In this essay we give an overview on the problem of rogue or freak wave formation in the ocean. The matter of the phenomenon is a sporadic occurrence of unexpectedly high waves on the sea surface. These waves cause serious danger for…
Rogue waves are extreme and rare fluctuations of the wave field that have been discussed in many physical systems. Their presence substantially influences the statistical properties of an incoherent wave field. Their understanding is…
Appropriate modelling of extreme skew surges is crucial, particularly for coastal risk management. Our study focuses on modelling extreme skew surges along the French Atlantic coast, with a particular emphasis on investigating the extremal…
The processes that generate rogue waves on the sea surface remain a mystery. Despite their different natures, the nonlinear bending waves generated in a thin elastic plate share some similarities with waves on the surface of the sea. For…
Laboratory experiments reveal that variations in bottom topography can qualitatively alter the distribution of randomized surface waves. A normally-distributed, unidirectional wave field becomes highly skewed and non-Gaussian upon…