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Prediction is a central goal and a yet-unresolved challenge in the investigation of oceanic rogue waves. Here we define a horizon of predictability for oceanic rogue waves and derive, via extensive computational experiments, the first…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2014-07-02 Reza Alam

Ocean mesoscale eddies can be thought of as the "weather" of the ocean and strongly influence the ocean's physics, chemistry, and biology; they influence other components of the Earth system via air-sea and sea-ice interactions, and are…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2026-05-19 Benjamin Lombardi , Ian Grooms , William Kleiber

A conceptual model relating the whitecap coverage to the bubble plume buoyancy is developed following the observation that the entrained bubble plume buoyancy constitutes a large portion of the breaking wave energy dissipation. The…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2019-06-27 Paul A. Hwang

In order to understand and predict coastal flooding processes in rocky environments, it is necessary to take into account bottom roughness, which plays a key role in wave transformation processes and in general coastal dynamics. The present…

Satellite Synthetic Aperture Radar (SAR) observations can provide a global view of ocean swell fields when using a specific "wave mode" sampling. A methodology is presented to routinely derive integral properties of the longer wavelength…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2009-02-23 Fabrice Collard , Fabrice Ardhuin , Bertrand Chapron

In-situ ocean wave observations are critical to improve model skill and validate remote sensing wave measurements. Historically, such observations are extremely sparse due to the large costs and complexity of traditional wave buoys and…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2020-03-11 Pieter B. Smit , Isabel A. Houghton , Kalina Jordanova , Thomas Portwood , Evan Shapiro , David Clark , Michael Sosa , Tim T. Janssen

Flexure of Antarctic ice shelves under excitation from long ocean waves induces mechanical ice shelf stresses that amplify fractures and, hence, contribute to calving events. Here, a solution method is developed for a hydroelastic…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2026-05-22 T. K. Papathanasiou , L. G. Bennetts , M. H. Meylan

Direct phase-resolved simulations are performed to investigate the propagation and scattering of nonlinear ocean waves in fragmented sea ice. The numerical model solves the full time-dependent equations for nonlinear potential flow coupled…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2022-11-30 Boyang Xu , Philippe Guyenne

Characteristic scale is a notion that pervades the geophysical sciences, but it has no widely accepted precise definition. The wavelet transform decomposes a time series into coefficients that are associated with different scales. The…

Methodology · Statistics 2010-07-26 Michael J. Keim , Donald B. Percival

Understanding the energy transfer from wind to waves is an important but complex topic, typically based on phenomenology, on pure numerics, or on technically challenging analysis, carried out on a case by case basis. Here we show that the…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2025-06-27 Christophe Chaubet , Miguel A. Manna , Norbert Kern

This study is concerned with prediction of the "wind noise" component of ambient noise (AN) in the ocean. It builds on the seminal paper by Felizardo and Melville (1995), in which the authors quantified the correlation between AN and…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2024-08-21 W. Erick Rogers , Laurie T. Fialkowski , Daniel J. Brooker , Gleb Panteleev , Joseph M. Fialkowski

Microwave remote sensing is significantly altered when passing through clouds or dense ice. This phenomenon isn't unique to microwaves; for instance, ultrasound is also disrupted when traversing through heterogeneous tissues. Understanding…

Classical Physics · Physics 2023-08-15 Aris Karnezis , Paulo S. Piva , Art L. Gower

Water wave attenuation by grease ice is a key mechanism for the polar regions, as waves in ice influence many phenomena such as ice drift, ice breaking, and ice formation. However, the models presented so far in the literature are limited…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2019-03-27 Jean Rabault , Graig Sutherland , Atle Jensen , Kai H Christensen , Aleksey Marchenko

The evolution of breaking waves propagating towards the shore and more specifically the run-up phase over the swash-zone for surface as well as for internal waves is considered. The study is based on a) laboratory run up experiments for…

Classical Physics · Physics 2008-02-01 Hubert Branger , Olivier Kimmoun , N. Gavrilov , Valery Liapidevskii , E. Pavlova

Antarctic meltwater is expected to increase throughout the coming centuries and impact sea level, ocean circulation, and the coupled climate evolution. This motivates interest in understanding the ocean response to Antarctic freshwater…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2026-03-18 Rory Basinski-Ferris , Laure Zanna , Ian Eisenman

We revisit the classical but as yet unresolved problem of predicting the breaking onset of 2D and 3D irrotational gravity water waves. This study focuses on domains with flat bottom topography and conditions ranging from deep to…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2017-04-04 X. Barthelemy , M. L. Banner , W. L. Peirson , F. Fedele , M. Allis , F. Dias

In situ and remotely sensed observations have potential to facilitate data-driven predictive models for oceanography. A suite of machine learning models, including regression, decision tree and deep learning approaches were developed to…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2020-06-24 Stefan Wolff , Fearghal O'Donncha , Bei Chen

Despite the importance and vulnerability of small island nations and their ecosystems, they frequently have insufficient observations to provide baseline or long-term perspectives on climate variability and change, and global model…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2017-07-18 Kristopher B. Karnauskas , Jeffrey P. Donnelly , Kevin J. Anchukaitis

Sea ice at the North Pole is vital to global climate dynamics. However, accurately forecasting sea ice poses a significant challenge due to the intricate interaction among multiple variables. Leveraging the capability to integrate multiple…

Artificial Intelligence · Computer Science 2025-10-21 Jaesung Park , Sungchul Hong , Yoonseo Cho , Jong-June Jeon

The analysis of wave patterns in a structure which possesses periodicity in the spatial and temporal dimensions is presented. The topic of imperfect chiral interfaces is also considered. Although causality is fundamental for physical…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2022-08-10 A. B. Movchan , N. V. Movchan , I. S. Jones , G. W. Milton , H. -M. Nguyen