Related papers: Dispersive effects during long wave run-up on a pl…
The description of gravity waves propagating on the water surface is considered from a historical point of view, with specific emphasis on the development of a theoretical framework and equations of motion for long waves in shallow water.…
The problem of the long wave runup on a beach is discussed in the framework of the rigorous solutions of the nonlinear shallow-water theory. The key and novel moment here is the analysis of the runup of a certain class of asymmetric waves,…
Historically the finite volume methods have been developed for the numerical integration of conservation laws. In this study we present some recent results on the application of such schemes to dispersive PDEs. Namely, we solve numerically…
The estimate of individual wave run-up is especially important for tsunami warning and risk assessment as it allows to evaluate the inundation area. Here as a model of tsunami we use the long single wave of positive polarity. The period of…
We study wave turbulence in shallow water flows in numerical simulations using two different approximations: the shallow water model, and the Boussinesq model with weak dispersion. The equations for both models were solved using periodic…
Finite volume schemes are commonly used to construct approximate solutions to conservation laws. In this study we extend the framework of the finite volume methods to dispersive water wave models, in particular to Boussinesq type systems.…
Until now the analysis of long wave runup on a plane beach has been focused on finding its maximum value, failing to capture the existence of resonant regimes. One-dimensional numerical simulations in the framework of the Nonlinear Shallow…
We study the behavior of shallow water waves propagating over bathymetry that varies periodically in one direction and is constant in the other. Plane waves traveling along the constant direction are known to evolve into solitary waves, due…
The problem of the sea wave runup on a beach is discussed in the framework of the rigorous solutions of the nonlinear shallow-water theory. Key and novel moment here is the accounting of the asymmetric waves when the face slope steepness…
Nonlinear wave run-up on the beach caused by harmonic wave maker located at some distance from the shore line is studied experimentally. It is revealed that under certain wave excitation frequencies a significant increase in run-up…
In this work we study the generation of water waves by an underwater sliding mass. The wave dynamics are assumed to fell into the shallow water regime. However, the characteristic wavelength of the free surface motion is generally smaller…
The problem of tsunami wave run-up on a beach is discussed in the framework of the rigorous solutions of the nonlinear shallow-water theory. We present an analysis of the run-up characteristics for various shapes of the incoming symmetrical…
The present article is the third part of a series of papers devoted to the shallow water wave modelling. In this part, we investigate the derivation of some long wave models on a deformed sphere. We propose first a suitable for our purposes…
Consideration is given to three different full dispersion Boussinesq systems arising as asymptotic models in the bi-directional propagation of weakly nonlinear surface waves in shallow water. We prove that, under a non-cavitation condition…
Dispersive shock waves (DSW) are a salient feature of long water waves often observed in tidal bores and tsunami/meteotsunami contexts. Their interaction with bathymetry is poorly understood. The shoreline hazard from tsunamis and…
The runup of initial Gaussian narrow-banded and wide-banded wave fields and its statistical characteristics are investigated using direct numerical simulations, based on the nonlinear shallow water equations. The bathymetry consists of the…
The propagation of focused wave groups in intermediate water depth and the shoaling zone is experimentally and numerically considered in this paper. The experiments are carried out in a two-dimensional wave flume and wave trains derived…
We consider a dissipative, dispersive system of Boussinesq type, describing wave phenomena in settings where dissipation has an effect. Examples include undular bores in rivers or oceans where dissipation due to turbulence is important for…
Dispersive shock waves (DSWs) are expanding nonlinear wave trains that arise when dispersion regularizes a steepening front, a phenomenon observed in fluids, plasmas, optics, and superfluids. Here we report the first experimental…
In this paper we study the dispersive properties related to a model of peridynamic evolution, governed by a non local initial value problem, in the cases of two and three spatial dimensions. The features of the wave propagation…