Related papers: Dispersive effects during long wave run-up on a pl…
The long-term goal of this work is the development of high-fidelity simulation tools for dispersive tsunami propagation. A dispersive model is especially important for short wavelength phenomena such as an asteroid impact into the ocean,…
Wave impact and run-up onto vertical obstacles are among the most important phenomena which must be taken into account in the design of coastal structures. From linear wave theory, we know that the wave amplitude on a vertical wall is twice…
Energy transmission over long distances by waves is a key mechanism for many natural processes. This possibility arises when an inhomogeneous medium is arranged in such a manner that it enables a certain type of wave to propagate with…
We theoretically describe the quasi one-dimensional transverse spreading of a light pulse propagating in a nonlinear optical material in the presence of a uniform background light intensity. For short propagation distances the pulse can be…
We present an experimental and numerical study of linear and non-linear viscous effects in transient non-linear long wave propagation in Newtonian and shear thinning fluids in the laminar flow regime. Using optical measuring techniques…
Long waves in shallow water propagating over a background shear flow towards a sloping beach are being investigated. The classical shallow-water equations are extended to incorporate both a background shear flow and a linear beach profile,…
In this paper, we review the history and current state-of-the-art in the modelling of long nonlinear dispersive waves. For the sake of conciseness of this review, we omit the unidirectional models and focus especially on some classical and…
The modeling of wave breaking dissipation in coastal areas is investigated with a fully nonlinear and dispersive wave model. The wave propagation model is based on potential flow theory, which initially assumes non-overturning waves.…
In 1967 D. H. Peregrine proposed a Boussinesq-type model for long waves in shallow waters of varying depth. This prominent paper turned a new leaf in coastal hydrodynamics along with contributions by F. Serre, A. E. Green \& P. M. Naghdi…
In this paper, we consider the higher order Boussinesq (HBq) equation which models the bi-directional propagation of longitudinal waves in various continuous media. The equation contains the higher order effects of frequency dispersion. The…
The runup of tsunami waves on the coasts of the barrow bays, channels and straits is studied in the framework of the nonlinear shallow water theory. Using the narrowness of the water channel, the one-dimensional equations are applied; they…
The classical theory of water waves is based on the theory of inviscid flows. However it is important to include viscous effects in some applications. Two models are proposed to add dissipative effects in the context of the Boussinesq…
The long-range contribution to dispersion forces is known to have a major impact on the properties of inhomogeneous fluids, and its correct treatment is increasingly recognized as being a necessary requirement to avoid cutoff-related…
Considering the non-hydrostatic mass flow model (Pudasaini, 2022), here, we derive a novel dispersive wave equation for landslide. The new dispersive wave for landslide recovers the classical dispersive water waves as a special case. We…
The evolution of breaking waves propagating towards the shore and more specifically the run-up phase over the swash-zone for surface as well as for internal waves is considered. The study is based on a) laboratory run up experiments for…
The problem of tsunami wave shoaling and runup in U-shaped bays (such as fjords) and underwater canyons is studied in the framework of shallow water theory. The wave shoaling in bays, when the depth varies smoothly along the channel axis,…
We report the observation of nonexponential decay of pulsed microwave transmission through quasi-one-dimensional random dielectric media that signals the breakdown of the diffusion model of transport for temporally coherent extended waves.…
We experimentally study linear and nonlinear waves on the surface of a fluid covered by an elastic sheet where both tension and flexural waves take place. An optical method is used to obtain the full space-time wave field, and the…
An ideal contrast-enhanced ultrasound image should display microbubble-induced nonlinearities while avoiding wave propagation nonlinearities. One of the most successful ultrasound pulse sequences to disentangle these nonlinear effects…
We present a phenomenological approach to dispersion in nonlinear elasticity. A simple, thermomechanically sound, constitutive model is proposed to describe the (non-dissipative) properties of a hyperelastic dispersive solid, without…