Related papers: Wind-Induced Changes to Surface Gravity Wave Shape…
Distributions of wave characteristics of ocean waves, such as wave slope, waveheight or wavelength, are an important tool in a variety of oceanographic applications such as safety of ocean structures or in the study of ship stability, as…
The problem of reconstructing non-harmonic internal gravity wave packets generated by a source moving in a stratified ocean is considered. The uniform asymptotic form of the internal gravity waves field generated by a source moving above…
Effects of subgrid-scale gravity waves (GWs) on the diurnal migrating tides are investigated from the mesosphere to the upper thermosphere for September equinox conditions, using a general circulation model coupled with the extended…
The impact of shoaling on linear water waves is well-known, but it has only been recently found to significantly amplify both the intensity and frequency of rogue waves in nonlinear irregular wave trains atop coastal shoals. At least…
Currents modulate the energy of surface gravity waves, leading to spatial inhomogeneities in significant wave height (SWH). Previous work indicates that the overall scale of the inhomogeneities is set by the scale of the currents, that the…
The role of short-wave instabilities on geostrophic turbulence is studied in a simplified model consisting of three layers in the quasi-geostrophic approximation. The linear stability analysis shows that short-wave instabilities are created…
The description of gravity waves propagating on the water surface is considered from a historical point of view, with specific emphasis on the development of a theoretical framework and equations of motion for long waves in shallow water.…
Ocean turbulence at meso- and submesocales affects the propagation of surface waves through refraction and scattering, inducing spatial modulations in significant wave height (SWH). We develop a theoretical framework that relates these…
Planetary migration is a key link between planet formation models and observed exoplanet statistics. So far the theory of migration has focused on the interaction of planets with an inviscid or viscously evolving disk. Turbulent viscosity…
Inhomogeneities in the wave field due to wave groups, currents, and shoaling among other ocean processes can affect the mean water level. In this work, the classical and unsolved problem of continuously computing the set-down and the…
The data of simultaneous measurements of the surface displacement produced by propagating planar waves in experimental flume and of the dynamic pressure beneath the waves are compared with the theoretical predictions based on different…
We present a set of idealised numerical experiments of a solstitial aquaplanet ocean and examine the thermodynamic and dynamic implications of surface gravity waves (SGWs) upon its mean state. The aquaplanet's oceanic circulation is…
Special features of surface gravity waves in deep fluid flow with constant vertical shear of velocity is studied. It is found that the mean flow velocity shear leads to non-trivial modification of surface gravity wave modes dispersive…
We examine the linear stability of a shear flow driven by wind stress at the free surface and rotation at the lower boundary, mimicking oceanic flows influenced by surface winds and rotation of Earth. The linearised eigenvalue problem is…
This paper describes the results from a numerical estimation of the force exerted by long surface waves on a fixed and partially immersed rectangular structure. The topic is connected with the need of making decisions on the design,…
A stochastic second-order wave model is applied to assess the statistical properties of wave orbital velocity in random sea states below the water surface. Directional spreading effects as well as the dependency of the water depth are…
Wind turbines operate in the atmospheric boundary layer, where they are exposed to the turbulent atmospheric flows. As the response time of wind turbine is typically in the range of seconds, they are affected by the small scale intermittent…
A flexible sheet clamped at both ends and submitted to a permanent wind is unstable and propagates waves. Here, we experimentally study the selection of frequency and wavenumber as a function of the wind velocity. These quantities obey…
Elastic wave speeds are fundamental in geomechanics and have historically been described by an analytic formula that assumes linearly elastic solid medium. Empirical relations stemming from this assumption were used to determine nonlinearly…
The parametric subharmonic instability in stratified fluids depends on the frequency and the amplitude of the primary plane wave. In this paper, we present experimental and numerical results emphasizing that the finite width of the beam…