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The surface gravity wave evolution, imitating tsunamis triggered by the ocean floor's arbitrary temporal motion over a generic seafloor topography, is investigated using the linearised water wave theory of a compressible ocean. The…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2025-09-30 Ravindra Pethiyagoda , Santu Das , Michael H. Meylan

Waves are observed at all layers of the solar atmosphere and the magnetic field plays a key role in their propagation. While deep down in the atmosphere the p-modes are almost entirely of acoustic nature, in the upper layers magnetic forces…

Solar and Stellar Astrophysics · Physics 2015-06-15 Elena Khomenko , Irantzu Calvo Santamaria

In order to understand and predict coastal flooding processes in rocky environments, it is necessary to take into account bottom roughness, which plays a key role in wave transformation processes and in general coastal dynamics. The present…

Wave shoaling of water waves over mild bottom slopes is well described by linearized theories. However, the analytical treatment of nonlinear wave shoaling subject to rapidly varying bottoms has proven to be elusive in the past decades. As…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2023-08-25 Saulo Mendes

Floating offshore wind turbines (FOWTs) are subjected to platform motion induced by wind and wave loads. The oscillatory movement trigger vortex instabilities, modifying the wake structure, influencing the flow reaching downstream wind…

Surface wave patterns are investigated experimentally in a system geometry that has become a paradigm of quantum chaos: the stadium billiard. Linear waves in bounded geometries for which classical ray trajectories are chaotic are known to…

Chaotic Dynamics · Physics 2009-10-31 A. Kudrolli , Mathew C. Abraham , J. P. Gollub

Understanding how submerged vegetation modifies the water surface is crucial for modeling momentum exchange between shallow waters and the atmosphere. In particular, quantifying its impact on the equivalent aerodynamic roughness of the…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2026-01-26 Giulio Foggi Rota , Alessandro Chiarini , Marco Edoardo Rosti

We present the research of ocean surface wind waves excitation in non-homogeneous situations, on the example of deep water strait in presence of the constant wind, blowing perpendicular to the coastal line. The used statistical wave model…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2021-02-03 Andrei Pushkarev

Refraction is the predominant mechanism causing spatially inhomogeneous surface gravity wave fields. However, the complex interplay between depth- and current-induced wave refraction remains poorly understood. Assuming weak currents and…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2025-09-17 Trygve Halsne , Yan Li

To aid in prediction of turbulent boundary layer flows over rough surfaces, a new model is proposed to estimate hydrodynamic roughness based solely on geometric surface information. The model is based on a fluid-mechanics motivated…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2024-12-18 Charles Meneveau , Nicholas Hutchins , Daniel Chung

Equations relating the pressure at a horizontal seabed, the free-surface profile and the surface-pressure are derived for two-dimensional irrotational steady water waves with arbitrary pressure at the free surface. Special cases include…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2023-11-01 Didier Clamond , Joris Labarbe

We consider one-dimensional model of the interaction between surface and the internal gravity water waves. The internal wave is modeled by its basic form: a non-dispersive field with a horizontal current that is uniform over all depth,…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2010-10-12 K. Lossow , N. Lossow

Air-sea drag governs the momentum transfer between the atmosphere and the ocean, and remains largely unknown in hurricane winds. We revisit the momentum budget and eddy-covariance methods to estimate the surface drag coefficient in the…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2020-09-15 Milan Curcic , Brian K. Haus

The search for solutions to the theory of weakly non-linear internal gravity wave turbulence is an active research topic. It is notably stimulated by the fact that this regime could drive fine-scale ocean dynamics for which the…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2025-09-01 Nicolas Lanchon , Samuel Boury , Pierre-Philippe Cortet

The dynamic and thermal regimes of climate are regulated by an exchange of energy and momentum between the atmosphere and the ocean. The role exerted by surface waves on this interchange is particularly enigmatic. Waves induce turbulence in…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2019-06-27 Alberto Alberello , Federico Frascoli , Miguel Onorato , Alessandro Toffoli

Internal waves, or waves that propagate within a stratified fluid, may break and cause mixing. While each individual mixing event may be small, collectively, internal wave breaking drive processes in the ocean that are critical to…

Axisymmetric waves occur across a wide range of scales. This study analyses large-scale gravity-dominated axisymmetric waves, with jet heights of up to 6 m, for which surface-tension effects are negligible. The Bond number is O(10^5) and…

The paper is devoted to the presentation of the non-spectral methods of analysis of the natural measurements of the internal gravity waves in the ocean with the purpose to determine characteristics of the wave-trains composing the measured…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2007-07-13 Vitaly A. Bulatov

New data was obtained for a frequency band that had not been so well-studied for sea surface probing applications before. During the described 2-weeks sea experiment 1-3 kHz tonal pulses were emitted from a platform, located on the northern…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2022-05-31 Alexey V. Ermoshkin , Dmitry A. Kosteev , Alexander A. Ponomarenko , Dmitry D. Razumov , Mikhail B. Salin

Wind-forced near-inertial waves (NIWs) propagate through a sea of mesoscale eddies, which can fundamentally alter their evolution. The nature of this NIW--mesoscale interaction depends on how dispersive the waves are. For weakly dispersive…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2025-07-17 Scott Conn , Jörn Callies