Related papers: Dispersive and non-dispersive nonlinear long wave …
The last decade has seen a significant increase in the number of studies devoted to wave turbulence. Many deal with water waves, as modeling of ocean waves has historically motivated the development of weak turbulence theory, which adresses…
The object of this study is to investigate the effect of viscosity on propagation of free-surface waves in an incompressible viscous fluid layer of arbitrary depth. While we provide a more detailed study of properties of linear surface…
We construct a family of explicit rotational solutions to the nonlinear governing equations for water waves, describing edge waves propagating over a plane-sloping beach. A detailed analysis of the edge wave dynamics and of the run-up…
The surface gravity wave evolution, imitating tsunamis triggered by the ocean floor's arbitrary temporal motion over a generic seafloor topography, is investigated using the linearised water wave theory of a compressible ocean. The…
The impact of a turbulent flow on wind-driven oceanic near-inertial waves is examined using a linearised shallow-water model of the mixed layer. Modelling the flow as a homogeneous and stationary random process with spatial scales…
The description of complex wave processes, in addition to the shoaling problem, is often cumbersome even for the evolution of regular waves. For reflection under the regime of wave breaking, the surf similarity is generally accepted as the…
Here I present a general formulation of water wave propagation and scattering over topographical bottoms. A simple equation is found and is compared with existing theories. As an application, the theory is extended to the case of water…
Two-dimensional nonlinear gravity waves travelling in shallow water on a vertically sheared current of constant vorticity are considered. Using Euler equations, in the shallow water approximation, hyperbolic equations for the surface…
The propagation of focused wave groups in intermediate water depth and the shoaling zone is experimentally and numerically considered in this paper. The experiments are carried out in a two-dimensional wave flume and wave trains derived…
Modern, high-fidelity numerical simulations have shown an apparently anomalous result: a longitudinal elastodynamic wave travelling perpendicular to the forcing direction. Numerical simulations, in combination with an analytical model, are…
Direct phase-resolved simulations are performed to investigate the propagation and scattering of nonlinear ocean waves in fragmented sea ice. The numerical model solves the full time-dependent equations for nonlinear potential flow coupled…
In this paper, we review the history and current state-of-the-art in the modelling of long nonlinear dispersive waves. For the sake of conciseness of this review, we omit the unidirectional models and focus especially on some classical and…
We study wave turbulence in shallow water flows in numerical simulations using two different approximations: the shallow water model, and the Boussinesq model with weak dispersion. The equations for both models were solved using periodic…
In the present manuscript, we consider the problem of dispersive wave simulation on a rotating globally spherical geometry. In this Part IV, we focus on numerical aspects while the model derivation was described in Part III. The algorithm…
Dispersive shock waves (DSW) are a salient feature of long water waves often observed in tidal bores and tsunami/meteotsunami contexts. Their interaction with bathymetry is poorly understood. The shoreline hazard from tsunamis and…
Large arrays of wave-absorbing structures could serve the double objective of coastal protection against erosion and clean, renewable electrical power production. In this work, the principle of an artificial canopy is explored, which…
The process of wave propagation in an infinite linear chain is analyzed. Established, that dispersion relation between the angular frequency and the wave number for transverse waves differs from similar dependencies for longitudinal.
This paper addresses deep-water gravity waves of finite amplitude generated by an initial disturbance to the water. It is assumed that the horizontal dimensions of the initially disturbed body of the water are much larger than the magnitude…
We study here the propagation of long waves in the presence of vorticity. In the irrotational framework, the Green-Naghdi equations (also called Serre or fully nonlinear Boussinesq equations) are the standard model for the propagation of…
We experimentally study linear and nonlinear waves on the surface of a fluid covered by an elastic sheet where both tension and flexural waves take place. An optical method is used to obtain the full space-time wave field, and the…