Related papers: Dispersive and non-dispersive nonlinear long wave …
A dispersion relation for gravity waves in water covered by disk-like impurities embedded in a viscous matrix is derived. The macroscopic equations are obtained by ensemble-averaging the fluid equations at the disk scale in the asymptotic…
The propagation of nonlinear waves in a lattice of repelling particles is studied theoretically and experimentally. A simple experimental setup is proposed, consisting in an array of coupled magnetic dipoles. By driving harmonically the…
Long waves in shallow water propagating over a background shear flow towards a sloping beach are being investigated. The classical shallow-water equations are extended to incorporate both a background shear flow and a linear beach profile,…
We investigate the propagation of scalar waves induced by matter sources in the context of scalar-tensor theories of gravity which include screening mechanisms for the scalar degree of freedom. The usual approach when studying these…
The present study focuses on the interaction of gravity waves in the atmosphere with the tropopause. As the vertical extent of the latter is small compared to the density scale height, wave propagation is described by the Taylor-Goldstein…
To date, the influence of non-linear stratifications and two layer stratifications on internal wave propagation has been studied for two-dimensional wave fields in a cartesian geometry. Here, we use a novel wave generator configuration to…
In this work we study the generation of water waves by an underwater sliding mass. The wave dynamics are assumed to fell into the shallow water regime. However, the characteristic wavelength of the free surface motion is generally smaller…
Nonlinear initial-boundary value problem on deep-water gravity waves of finite amplitude is solved approximately (up to small terms of higher order) assuming that the waves are generated by an initial disturbance to the water and the…
The problem of tsunami wave run-up on a beach is discussed in the framework of the rigorous solutions of the nonlinear shallow-water theory. We present an analysis of the run-up characteristics for various shapes of the incoming symmetrical…
The analysis of nonlinear wave equations has experienced a dramatic growth in the last ten years or so. The key factor in this has been the transition from linear analysis, first to the study of bilinear and multilinear wave interactions,…
The data of simultaneous measurements of the surface displacement produced by propagating planar waves in experimental flume and of the dynamic pressure beneath the waves are compared with the theoretical predictions based on different…
Nonlinear waves are studied in a mixture of liquid and gas bubbles. Influence of viscosity and heat transfer is taken into consideration on propagation of the pressure waves. Nonlinear evolution equations of the second and the third order…
We study propagation of high-frequency wave packets along a large-scale background wave which evolves according to dispersionless hydrodynamic equations for two variables (fluid density and flow velocity). Influence of the wave packet on…
We consider a layer of an inviscid fluid with free surface which is subject to vertical high-frequency vibrations. We derive three asymptotic systems of equations that describe slowly evolving (in comparison with the vibration frequency)…
The propagation of water waves of finite depth and flat bottom is studied in the case when the depth is not small in comparison to the wavelength. This propagation regime is complementary to the long-wave regime described by the famous KdV…
We discuss the impact of viscosity on nonlinear propagation of surface waves at the interface of air and a fluid of large depth. After a survey of the available approximations of the dispersion relation, we propose to modify the…
Distributions of wave characteristics of ocean waves, such as wave slope, waveheight or wavelength, are an important tool in a variety of oceanographic applications such as safety of ocean structures or in the study of ship stability, as…
An experimental validation of theoretical models of transmission of regular water waves by large arrays of floating disks is presented. The experiments are conducted in a wave basin. The models are based on combined potential-flow and…
We consider evolution of wave pulses with formation of dispersive shock waves in framework of fully nonlinear shallow-water equations. Situations of initial elevations or initial dips on the water surface are treated and motion of the…
The instability and nonlinear evolution of directional ocean waves is investigated numerically by means of simulations of the governing kinetic equation for narrow-band surface waves. Our simulation results reveal the onset of the…