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We investigate the energy growth and dissipation of wind-forced breaking waves at high wind speed using direct numerical simulations of the coupled air-water Navier-Stokes equations. A turbulent wind boundary layer drives the growth of a…

It has been reported that traveling waves propagate periodically and stably in sub-excitable systems driven by noise [Phys. Rev. Lett. \textbf{88}, 138301 (2002)]. As a further investigation, here we observe different types of traveling…

Chaotic Dynamics · Physics 2008-01-17 Fen-Ni Si , Quan-Xing Liu , Jin-Zhong Zhang , Lu-Qun Zhou

Microwave transport experiments have been performed in a quasi-two-dimensional resonator with randomly distributed scatterers, each mimicking an $r^{-2}$ repulsive potential. Analysis of both stationary wave fields and transient transport…

Disordered Systems and Neural Networks · Physics 2010-03-09 R. Hoehmann , U. Kuhl , H. -J. Stoeckmann , L. Kaplan , E. J. Heller

Because wind-generated waves can propagate over large distances, wave spectra from a fixed point can record information about air-sea interactions in distant areas. In this study, the spectral wave climate is computed for a specific…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2019-02-14 Haoyu Jiang , Lin Mu

We measure the velocities of the mean flows which are driven by curved rolls in a pattern formation system. Curved rolls in Faraday waves are generated in experimental cells consisting of channels with varying widths. The mean flow…

Pattern Formation and Solitons · Physics 2007-05-23 Peilong Chen

The dispersive motion of surface waves is now routinely used to remotely measure the currents close beneath the surface of oceans and other natural flows. The current manifests as wavelength-dependent Doppler shifts in the spatiotemporal…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2024-08-27 Stefan Weichert , Benjamin K. Smeltzer , Simen Å. Ellingsen

We study the wave transport through a disordered system inside a waveguide. The expectation value of the complex reflection and transmission coefficients (the coherent fields) as well as the transmittance and reflectance are obtained…

Disordered Systems and Neural Networks · Physics 2014-10-24 M. Yepez

High-frequency wave propagation in near-inertial wave shear has been considered fundamental in setting the spectral character of the oceanic internal wave continuum and for transporting energy to wave-breaking. We compare idealized ray…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2023-10-27 Kurt L Polzin , Yuri V Lvov

A new ocean wave/sea-ice interaction model is proposed that simulates how a directional wave spectrum evolves as it travels through an arbitrary finite array of circular ice floes, where wave/ice dynamics are entirely governed by wave…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2015-06-19 Fabien Montiel , Vernon Squire , Luke Bennetts

We investigate wind wave growth by direct numerical simulations solving for the two phase Navier-Stokes equations. We consider ratio of the wave speed $c$ to wind friction velocity $u_*$ from $c/u_*=$ 2 to 8, i.e. in the slow to…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2022-11-08 Jiarong Wu , Stéphane Popinet , Luc Deike

Wave steepness is a key geometric variable for describing breaking occurrence and its consequences, including energy dissipation and air entrainment. Using three laboratory campaigns under varying spectral conditions and co-flowing wind…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2026-05-29 Rui Cao , Enrique M. Padilla , Xu Chen , Adrian H. Callaghan

Ocean turbulence at meso- and submesocales affects the propagation of surface waves through refraction and scattering, inducing spatial modulations in significant wave height (SWH). We develop a theoretical framework that relates these…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2025-03-05 Han Wang , Ana B. Villas Bôas , Jacques Vanneste , William R. Young

Waves propagating through weakly disordered smooth linear media undergo a universal phenomenon called branched flow. Branched flow has been observed and studied experimentally in various systems by considering coherent waves. Recent…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2025-04-09 Josselin Garnier , Antonio Picozzi , Theo Torres

Turbulent and internal wave motions are important for the exchange of momentum, heat and suspended matter in the deep-sea which is generally stably stratified in density. Turbulence-generation models involve shear of vertical current…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2023-03-21 Hans van Haren

Traveling waves describe diverse natural phenomena from crystal growth in physics to range expansions in biology. Two classes of waves exist with very different properties: pulled and pushed. Pulled waves are driven by high growth rates at…

Populations and Evolution · Quantitative Biology 2018-02-27 Gabriel Birzu , Oskar Hallatschek , Kirill S. Korolev

The coupling between wind-waves and atmospheric surface layer turbulence sets surface drag. This coupling is however usually represented through a roughness length. Originally suggested on purely dimensional grounds, this roughness length…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2021-03-12 Alex Ayet , Bertrand Chapron , Peter Sutherland , Gabriel G. Katul

We examine two means by which wind can impart energy to waves: sheltering and deposition of material upwards from windward surface shear. The shear driven deposition is shown to be the more efficient process. Lengthening of waves to match…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2014-08-28 Clifford Chafin

Gyres are central features of large-scale ocean circulation and are involved in transporting tracers such as heat, nutrients, and carbon-dioxide within and across ocean basins. Traditionally, the gyre circulation is thought to be driven by…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2023-11-02 Dhruv Bhagtani , Andrew McColl Hogg , Ryan Mahony Holmes , Navid C. Constantinou

In the design process of marine structures like offshore wind turbines the long-term distribution of significant wave height needs to be modelled to estimate loads. This is typically done by fitting a translated Weibull distribution to wave…

Applications · Statistics 2020-05-14 Andreas F. Haselsteiner , Klaus-Dieter Thoben

Deep ocean acoustics, in the absence of shipping and wildlife, is driven by surface processes. Best understood is the signal generated by non-linear surface wave interactions, the Longuet-Higgins mechanism, which dominates from 0.1 to 10…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2017-03-08 Zachary Guralnik , William Farrell , John Bourdelais , Xavier Zabalgogeazcoa