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Wave propagation is studied in a sufficiently anisotropic random medium that backscattering along one direction can be neglected. A Fokker-Planck equation is derived the solution to which would provide a complete statistical description of…

Disordered Systems and Neural Networks · Physics 2009-10-31 Yi-Kuo Yu , H. Mathur

Distributions of wave characteristics of ocean waves, such as wave slope, waveheight or wavelength, are an important tool in a variety of oceanographic applications such as safety of ocean structures or in the study of ship stability, as…

Probability · Mathematics 2008-12-18 Sofia Aberg , Igor Rychlik , M. Ross Leadbetter

We report experimental observations of two canonical surface wave patterns --- ship waves and ring waves --- skewed by sub-surface shear, thus confirming effects predicted by recent theory. Observed ring waves on a still surface with…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2019-08-12 Benjamin K. Smeltzer , Eirik Æsøy , Simen Å. Ellingsen

The unsteady flow physics of wind-turbine wakes under dynamic forcing conditions are critical to the modeling and control of wind farms for optimal power density. Unsteady forcing in the streamwise direction may be generated by unsteady…

A simple analytical model is developed for the current induced by the wind and modified by surface wind-waves in the oceanic surface layer, based on a first-order turbulence closure and including the effect of a vortex force representing…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2018-12-05 Miguel A. C. Teixeira

Scattering of random surface gravity waves by small amplitude topography in the presence of a uniform current is investigated theoretically. This problem is relevant to ocean waves propagation on shallow continental shelves where tidal…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2007-05-23 Rudy Magne , Fabrice Ardhuin

We present the results of numerical simulations of wave propagation and jet formation in solar atmosphere models with different magnetic field configurations. The presence in the chromosphere of waves with periods longer than the acoustic…

Solar and Stellar Astrophysics · Physics 2011-12-05 L. Heggland , V. H. Hansteen , B. De Pontieu , M. Carlsson

Modern, high-fidelity numerical simulations have shown an apparently anomalous result: a longitudinal elastodynamic wave travelling perpendicular to the forcing direction. Numerical simulations, in combination with an analytical model, are…

Applied Physics · Physics 2024-06-24 Peter Huthwaite

In this paper we consider fundamental processes of the disturbance and propagation of internal gravity waves in the ocean modeled as a vertically stratified, horizontally non-uniform, and non-stationary medium. We develop asymptotic methods…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2013-08-20 Vitaly V. Bulatov , Yuriy V. Vladimirov

The paper is devoted to the presentation of the non-spectral methods of analysis of the natural measurements of the internal gravity waves in the ocean with the purpose to determine characteristics of the wave-trains composing the measured…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2007-07-13 Vitaly A. Bulatov

The description of gravity waves propagating on the water surface is considered from a historical point of view, with specific emphasis on the development of a theoretical framework and equations of motion for long waves in shallow water.…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2022-03-30 Tomas Torsvik , Ahmed Abdalazeez , Denys Dutykh , Petr Denissenko , Ira Didenkulova

Internal waves propagate on the ocean's stratification, carrying energy and redistributing momentum through the ocean. When internal waves break, they contribute to diapycnal mixing in the ocean interior, but this breaking behaviour depends…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2025-07-31 Ashley J. Barnes , Callum J. Shakespeare , Andy McC. Hogg , Navid C. Constantinou

The data of simultaneous measurements of the surface displacement produced by propagating planar waves in experimental flume and of the dynamic pressure beneath the waves are compared with the theoretical predictions based on different…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2022-04-06 A. V. Slunyaev , A. V. Kokorina , M. Klein

The work highlights the importance of directional spreading effects on wave overtopping estimation in shallow and mild sloping foreshores. Wave short-crestedness leads, in general, to a reduction of mean overtopping discharges on coastal…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2020-02-12 Corrado Altomare , Tomohiro Suzuki , Toon Verwaest

Large arrays of wave-absorbing structures could serve the double objective of coastal protection against erosion and clean, renewable electrical power production. In this work, the principle of an artificial canopy is explored, which…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2021-12-02 Alexis Mérigaud , Benjamin Thiria , Ramiro Godoy-Diana

The propagation speed of a circumstellar pattern revealed in the plane of the sky is often assumed to represent the expansion speed of the wind matter ejected from a post-main-sequence star at the center. We point out that the often-adopted…

Solar and Stellar Astrophysics · Physics 2023-08-31 Hyosun Kim

New parameterizations for the spectra dissipation of wind-generated waves are proposed. The rates of dissipation have no predetermined spectral shapes and are functions of the wave spectrum and wind speed and direction, in a way consistent…

An experimental model of transmission of ocean waves by an ice floe is presented. Thin plastic plates with different material properties and thicknesses are used to model the floe. Regular incident waves with different periods and…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2016-01-20 Luke Bennetts , Alberto Alberello , Michael Meylan , Claudio Cavaliere , Alexander Babanin , Alessandro Toffoli

We study deep water ocean wind-driven waves in strait, with wind directed orthogonally to the shore, through exact Hasselmann equation. Despite of "dissipative" shores - we do not include any reflection from the coast lines - we show that…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2019-05-14 Andrei Pushkarev , Vladimir Zakharov

Coastal upwelling, driven by alongshore winds and characterized by cold sea surface temperatures and high upper-ocean nutrient content, is an important physical process sustaining some of the oceans' most productive ecosystems. To fully…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2023-12-11 Elle Weeks , Martin Losch , Eli Tziperman