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We describe the physical hypotheses underlying the derivation of an approximate model of water waves. For unidirectional surface shallow water waves moving over an irrotational flow as well as over a non-zero vorticity flow, we derive the…

Mathematical Physics · Physics 2007-11-30 Delia Ionescu-Kruse

The Whitham equation was proposed as an alternate model equation for the simplified description of uni-directional wave motion at the surface of an inviscid fluid. As the Whitham equation incorporates the full linear dispersion relation of…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2020-02-20 Daulet Moldabayev , Henrik Kalisch , Denys Dutykh

The KdV equation can be derived in the shallow water limit of the Euler equations. Over the last few decades, this equation has been extended to include higher order effects. Although this equation has only one conservation law, exact…

Pattern Formation and Solitons · Physics 2018-04-06 Piotr Rozmej , Anna Karczewska , Eryk Infeld

We investigate the particle trajectories in a constant vorticity shallow water flow over a flat bed as periodic waves propagate on the water's free surface. Within the framework of small amplitude waves, we find the solutions of the…

Mathematical Physics · Physics 2011-06-21 Delia Ionescu-Kruse

Debris flows often exhibit coherent wave structures-shock-like roll waves on steeper slopes and weaker, more sinusoidal dispersive pulses on gentler slopes. Coarse-rich heads raise basal resistance, whereas fines-rich tails lower it; in…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2026-02-11 Louis-S. Bouchard , Seulgi Moon

In this paper we derive consistent shallow water equations for thin films of power law fluids down an incline. These models account for the streamwise diffusion of momentum which is important to describe accurately the full dynamic of the…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2015-06-12 Pascal Noble , Jean Paul Vila

The response of a spherical moist shallow water system to tropical imbalances in the presence of inhomogeneous saturation fields is examined. While the initial moist response is similar to the dry reference run, albeit with a reduced…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2021-01-26 D. L. Suhas , Jai Sukhatme

A Hamiltonian model for the propagation of internal water waves interacting with surface waves, a current and an uneven bottom is examined. Using the so-called Dirichlet-Neumann operators, the water wave system is expressed in the…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2022-11-09 Lili Fan , Ruonan Liu , Hongjun Gao

A single incompressible, inviscid, irrotational fluid medium bounded above by a free surface is considered. The Hamiltonian of the system is expressed in terms of the so-called Dirichlet-Neumann operators. The equations for the surface…

Exactly Solvable and Integrable Systems · Physics 2024-09-06 Rossen I. Ivanov

We study the variable bottom generalized Korteweg-de Vries (bKdV) equation dt u=-dx(dx^2 u+f(u)-b(t,x)u), where f is a nonlinearity and b is a small, bounded and slowly varying function related to the varying depth of a channel of water.…

Mathematical Physics · Physics 2007-05-23 S. I. Dejak , I. M. Sigal

Hammack & Segur (1978) conducted a series of surface water-wave experiments in which the evolution of long waves of depression was measured and studied. This present work compares time series from these experiments with predictions from…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2018-05-02 John D. Carter

We prove an asymptotic stability result for the water wave equations linearized around small solitary waves. The equations we consider govern irrotational flow of a fluid with constant density bounded below by a rigid horizontal bottom and…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2010-09-03 Robert L. Pego , Shu-Ming Sun

We propose an extension of the discretization approaches for multilayer shallow water models, aimed at making them more flexible and efficient for realistic applications to coastal flows. A novel discretization approach is proposed, in…

Numerical Analysis · Mathematics 2018-04-18 Luca Bonaventura , Enrique D. Fernández-Nieto , José Garres-Díaz , Gladys Narbona-Reina

In this work, we study the nonlinear traveling waves in density stratified fluids with depth varying shear currents. Beginning the formulation of the water-wave problem due to [1], we extend the work of [4] and [18] to examine the interface…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2017-08-30 K. L. Oliveras , C. W. Curtis

In this letter, we derive the Korteweg-de Vries (KdV) equation corresponding to the surface dynamics of a shallow depth ($h$) two-dimensional fluid with odd viscosity ($\nu_o$) subject to gravity ($g$) in the long wavelength weakly…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2021-09-15 Gustavo M. Monteiro , Sriram Ganeshan

We consider a system of two reaction-diffusion-advection equations describing the one dimensional directed motion of particles with superimposed diffusion and mutual alignment. For this system we show the existence of traveling wave…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2021-01-19 Heinrich Freistühler , Jan Fuhrmann

A single incompressible, inviscid, irrotational fluid medium bounded by a free surface and varying bottom is considered. The Hamiltonian of the system is expressed in terms of the so-called Dirichlet-Neumann operators. The equations for the…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2018-11-09 Alan Compelli , Rossen I. Ivanov , Michail D. Todorov

Formally second-order correct, mathematical descriptions of long-crested water waves propagating mainly in one direction are derived. These equations are analogous to the first-order approximations of KdV- or BBM-type. The advantage of…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2017-05-02 J. L. Bona , X. Carvajal , M. Panthee , M. Scialom

We consider a quasilinear KdV equation that admits compactly supported traveling wave solutions (compactons). This model is one of the most straightforward instances of degenerate dispersion, a phenomenon that appears in a variety of…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2018-01-03 Pierre Germain , Benjamin Harrop-Griffiths , Jeremy Marzuola

In the study of oceanic flows at the geophysical scale, the phenomenon of density stratification plays a central role in the dynamics of the system. Two categories of mathematical models are commonly used to describe the role played by the…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2026-03-17 Théo Fradin