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A new type of wave-mean flow interaction is identified and studied in which a small-amplitude, linear, dispersive modulated wave propagates through an evolving, nonlinear, large-scale fluid state such as an expansion (rarefaction) wave or a…

Pattern Formation and Solitons · Physics 2019-08-06 T. Congy , G. A. El , M. A. Hoefer

Numerical simulations of the unidirectional random waves are performed within the Korteweg -de Vries equation to investigate the statistical properties of surface gravity waves in shallow water. Nonlinear evolution shows the relaxation of…

Exactly Solvable and Integrable Systems · Physics 2007-05-23 Anna Kokorina , Efim Pelinovsky

In the linear approximation, we study a one-dimensional problem of the reflectionless wave propagation on a surface of a shallow duct with the spatially varying water depth, duct width, and current. We show that both global and bounded…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2021-12-08 Semyon Churilov , Yury Stepanyants

The propagation of surface water waves interacting with a current and an uneven bottom is studied. Such a situation is typical for ocean waves where the winds generate currents in the top layer of the ocean. The role of the bottom…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2019-02-19 Alan C. Compelli , Rossen I. Ivanov , Calin I. Martin , Michail D. Todorov

Two-dimensional nonlinear gravity waves travelling in shallow water on a vertically sheared current of constant vorticity are considered. Using Euler equations, in the shallow water approximation, hyperbolic equations for the surface…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2018-07-04 Christian Kharif , Malek Abid

This paper considers a mathematical model of steady flows of an inviscid and incompressible fluid moving in the azimuthal direction. The water density varies with depth and the waves are propagating under the force of gravity, over a flat…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2025-12-09 Cristina Gheorghe , Andrei Stan

Energy distributions of high frequency linear wave fields are often modelled in terms of flow or transport equations with ray dynamics given by a Hamiltonian vector field in phase space. Applications arise in underwater and room acoustics,…

Computational Physics · Physics 2014-08-12 David Chappell , Gregor Tanner , Niels Sondergaard , Dominik Loechel

There are two distinct regimes commonly used to model traveling waves in stratified water: continuous stratification, where the density is smooth throughout the fluid, and layer-wise continuous stratification, where the fluid consists of…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2016-01-27 Robin Ming Chen , Samuel Walsh

We present an elementary method to obtain the equations of the shallow-water solitary waves in different orders of approximation. The first two of these equations are solved to get the shapes and propagation velocities of the corresponding…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2009-09-14 Gábor B. Halász

We review here the derivation of many of the most important models that appear in the literature (mainly in coastal oceanography) for the description of waves in shallow water. We show that these models can be obtained using various…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2020-04-22 David Lannes

Wave shape (e.g. wave skewness and asymmetry) impacts sediment transport, remote sensing and ship safety. Previous work showed that wind affects wave shape in intermediate and deep water. Here, we investigate the effect of wind on wave…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2021-07-01 Thomas Zdyrski , Falk Feddersen

The impact of a turbulent flow on wind-driven oceanic near-inertial waves is examined using a linearised shallow-water model of the mixed layer. Modelling the flow as a homogeneous and stationary random process with spatial scales…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2016-07-20 Eric Danioux , Jacques Vanneste

We study traveling wave solutions of an equation for surface waves of moderate amplitude arising as a shallow water approximation of the Euler equations for inviscid, incompressible and homogenous fluids. We obtain solitary waves of…

Classical Analysis and ODEs · Mathematics 2013-12-06 Armengol Gasull , Anna Geyer

In order to investigate corrections to the common KdV approximation for surface water waves in a canal, we derive modulation equations for the evolution of long wavelength initial data. We work in Lagrangian coordinates. The equations which…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2007-05-23 J. Douglas Wright

The diffusive viscous wave equation describes wave propagation in diffusive and viscous media. Examples include seismic waves traveling through the Earth's crust, taking into account of both the elastic properties of rocks and the…

Numerical Analysis · Mathematics 2025-01-13 Siyang Wang

Differential buoyancy surface sources in the ocean may induce a density-driven flow that joins faster flow components to create a multi-scale, 3D flow. Potential temperature and salinity are active tracers that determine the ocean's…

Geophysics · Physics 2022-08-10 Ori Saporta-Katz , Edriss S. Titi , Hezi Gildor , Vered Rom-Kedar

Consideration is given to the KdV equation as an approximate model for long waves of small amplitude at the free surface of an inviscid fluid. It is shown that there is an approximate momentum density associated to the KdV equation, and the…

Mathematical Physics · Physics 2018-08-21 Samer Israwi , Henrik Kalisch

We prove that the flow map associated to a model equation for surface waves of moderate amplitude in shallow water is not uniformly continuous in the Sobolev space $H^s$ with $s>3/2$. The main idea is to consider two suitable sequences of…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2013-12-16 N. Duruk Mutlubas , A. Geyer , B. V. Matioc

We modify the nonlinear shallow water equations, the Korteweg-de Vries equation, and the Whitham equation, to permit constant vorticity, and examine wave breaking, or the lack thereof. By wave breaking, we mean that the solution remains…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2017-05-19 Vera Mikyoung Hur

Oceanic waves registered by satellite observations often have curvilinear fronts and propagate over various currents. In this paper, we study long linear and weakly-nonlinear ring waves in a stratified fluid in the presence of a…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2016-04-12 K. R. Khusnutdinova , X. Zhang