Related papers: An experimental comparison of velocities underneat…
Modeling ocean surface waves under complex ocean current conditions is of crucial importance to many naval applications. For example, traveling ships and underwater vehicles generate spatially heterogeneous currents behind them through…
The paper is devoted to a numerical study of the problem of interaction of the wave packet with potential structures moving with constant acceleration. In all the cases considered the result of the interaction is a change in the velocity…
Considering two-dimensional potential ideal flow with free surface and finite depth, we study the dynamics of small-amplitude and short-wavelength wavetrains propagating on the background of a steepening nonlinear wave. This can be seen as…
Large amplitude water waves on deep water has long been known in the sea faring community, and the cause of great concern for, e.g., oil platform constructions. The concept of such freak waves is nowadays, thanks to satellite and radar…
The present article is devoted to the study of the dynamics of narrowband wave fields within the non-integrable Schamel equation, which plays an important role in plasma physics, wave dynamics in metamaterials, and electrical circuits. A…
An experimental study of the dynamics and droplet production in three mechanically generated plunging breaking waves is presented in this two-part paper. In the present paper (Part 1), the dynamics of the three breakers are studied through…
The impact of a turbulent flow on wind-driven oceanic near-inertial waves is examined using a linearised shallow-water model of the mixed layer. Modelling the flow as a homogeneous and stationary random process with spatial scales…
In weakly nonlinear dispersive wave systems, long-time dynamics are typically governed by time resonances, where wave phases evolve coherently due to exact frequency matching. Recent advances in spatio-temporal spectrum measurements,…
Distributions of wave characteristics of ocean waves, such as wave slope, waveheight or wavelength, are an important tool in a variety of oceanographic applications such as safety of ocean structures or in the study of ship stability, as…
The phases are the main factor that affects the outcome of various optical phenomena, such as quantum superposition, wave interference, and light-matter interaction. As a light wave becomes nonstatic, an additional phase, the so-called…
It is shown that spatially periodic one-dimensional surface waves in shallow water behave almost linearly, provided large part of the energy is contained in sufficiently high frequencies. The amplitude is not required to be small (apart…
A new model other than the classical ones given by Airy, Stokes and Gerstner for the ocean surface wave is constructed. It leads to new understandings for the wave mechanisms: (1) A wave with bigger amplitude or smaller steepness travels…
We develop a weakly nonlinear model to study the spatiotemporal manifestation and the dynamical behavior of surface waves in the presence of an underlying interfacial solitary wave in a two-layer fluid system. We show that interfacial…
The question of the relative importance of coherent structures and waves has for a long time attracted a great deal of interest in astrophysical plasma turbulence research, with a more recent focus on kinetic scale dynamics. Here we utilize…
Discussions on a form of a frequency spectrum of wind-driven sea waves just above the spectral maximum have continued for the last three decades. In 1958 Phillips made a conjecture that wave breaking is the main mechanism responsible for…
The problem of existence of stable nonlinear groups of gravity waves in deep water is revised by means of laboratory and numerical simulations with the focus on intense waves. Wave groups with steepness up to $A_{cr} \omega_m^2 /g \approx…
In periodic wave motion, particles beneath the wave undergo a drift in the direction of wave propagation, a phenomenon known as Stokes drift. While extensive research has been conducted on Stokes drift in water wave flows, its counterpart…
We report experimental observations of two canonical surface wave patterns --- ship waves and ring waves --- skewed by sub-surface shear, thus confirming effects predicted by recent theory. Observed ring waves on a still surface with…
Internal waves propagate obliquely through a stratified fluid with an angle that is fixed with respect to gravity. Upon reflection on a sloping bed, striking phenomena are expected to occur close to the slope. We present here laboratory…
We investigate the energy growth and dissipation of wind-forced breaking waves at high wind speed using direct numerical simulations of the coupled air-water Navier-Stokes equations. A turbulent wind boundary layer drives the growth of a…