Related papers: An experimental comparison of velocities underneat…
Wave breaking is a critical process in the upper ocean: an energy sink for the surface wave field and a source for turbulence in the ocean surface boundary layer. We apply a novel multi-layer numerical solver resolving upper-ocean dynamics…
Direct phase-resolved simulations are performed to investigate the propagation and scattering of nonlinear ocean waves in fragmented sea ice. The numerical model solves the full time-dependent equations for nonlinear potential flow coupled…
To investigate the formation mechanism of energy spectra of internal waves in the oceans, direct numerical simulations are performed. The simulations are based on the reduced dynamical equations of rotating stratified turbulence. In the…
We investigate the interaction of waves with surface flows by considering the full set of conserved quantities, subtle but important surface elevation changes induced by wave packets and by directly considering the necessary forces to…
The description of gravity waves propagating on the water surface is considered from a historical point of view, with specific emphasis on the development of a theoretical framework and equations of motion for long waves in shallow water.…
Perpendicular electron dynamics and the associated collisions are discussed in relation to the collisional drift wave instability. In addition, the limit of small parallel wave numbers of this instability is studied and it is shown to yield…
Nonlinear interaction and breaking of internal ocean waves are responsible for much of the interior ocean mixing, affecting ocean carbon storage and the global overturning circulation. These interactions may affect the observed Garrett-Munk…
A spectrogram is a useful way of using short-time discrete Fourier transforms to visualise surface height measurements taken of ship wakes in real world conditions. For a steadily moving ship that leaves behind small-amplitude waves, the…
Wave impact and run-up onto vertical obstacles are among the most important phenomena which must be taken into account in the design of coastal structures. From linear wave theory, we know that the wave amplitude on a vertical wall is twice…
Nonlinear dynamics of surface gravity waves trapped by an opposing jet current is studied analytically and numerically. For wave fields narrowband in frequency but not necessarily with narrow angular distributions the developed asymptotic…
Nonlinear waves are a robust phenomenon observed in complex systems ranging from mechanics to ecology. Fronts are fundamental due to their robustness against perturbations and capacity to propagate one state over another. Controlling and…
The last decade has seen a significant increase in the number of studies devoted to wave turbulence. Many deal with water waves, as modeling of ocean waves has historically motivated the development of weak turbulence theory, which adresses…
Wave-breaking is studied analytically first and the results are compared with accurate numerical simulations of 3D wave-breaking. We focus on the time dependence of various quantities becoming singular at the onset of breaking. The power…
Sufficient conditions for wave breaking are found for the short-pulse equation describing wave packets of few cycles on the ultra-short pulse scale. The analysis relies on the method of characteristics and conserved quantities of the…
This paper is intended to study impact forces of breaking waves on a rigid wall based on a nonlinear potential-flow theory. This is a model problem for some technologically important design issues such as the impact of breaking waves on…
For scalar semilinear wave equations, we analyze the interaction of two (distorted) plane waves at an interface between media of different nonlinear properties. We show that new waves are generated from the nonlinear interactions, which…
The coupling between wind-waves and atmospheric surface layer turbulence sets surface drag. This coupling is however usually represented through a roughness length. Originally suggested on purely dimensional grounds, this roughness length…
Dissipation within the turbulent boundary layer under sea ice is one of many processes contributing to wave energy attenuation in ice-covered seas. Although recent observations suggest that the contribution of that process to the total…
The stability and transition in the bottom boundary layer under a solitary wave are analysed in the presence of finite amplitude disturbances. First, the receptivity of the boundary layer is investigated using a linear input-output…
This article explores how a submerged elastic plate, clamped at one edge, interacts with water waves. Submerged elastic plates have been considered as potentially effective design elements in the development of wave energy harvesters but…