Related papers: The pressure distribution in extreme Stokes waves
Euler's equations govern the behavior of gravity waves on the surface of an incompressible, inviscid, and irrotational fluid of arbitrary depth. We investigate the spectral stability of sufficiently small-amplitude, one-dimensional Stokes…
The shoaling of surface gravity waves has been acknowledged as a mechanism of rogue wave formation. This problem is generally reduced to water waves passing over a step, but non-equilibrium physics allows finite slopes to be considered.…
Experiments on 2D random water wave propagation in a large wave tank are analyzed when the effect of dispersion changes. A stereoscopic profilometry technique is used to measure the water surface displacement resolved in both time and space…
We consider the Stokes problem in an exterior domain $\Omega \subset \R^n$ with an external force $\bbf \in L^s(0,T; \bW^{k,\, r}(\Omega ))\, (k\in \N, 1<r<\infty)$. In the present paper we show that in contrast to $\bu$ the boundary…
The inertia of particles driven by the turbulent flow of the surrounding fluid makes them prefer certain regions of the flow. The heavy particles lag behind the flow and tend to accumulate in the regions with less vorticity, while the light…
The problem of existence of stable nonlinear groups of gravity waves in deep water is revised by means of laboratory and numerical simulations with the focus on intense waves. Wave groups with steepness up to $A_{cr} \omega_m^2 /g \approx…
Wave shoaling of water waves over mild bottom slopes is well described by linearized theories. However, the analytical treatment of nonlinear wave shoaling subject to rapidly varying bottoms has proven to be elusive in the past decades. As…
The transport and shear under a Phillips-type spectrum are presented. A combined profile for monochromatic swell and a Phillips-type wind sea spectrum which can be used to investigate the shear under crossing seas is then presented.
Water displays breakdown of the Stokes-Einstein relation at low temperatures. We hypothesize that the breakdown is a result of the structural changes and a sharp rise in dynamic heterogeneities that occurs low T upon crossing the Widom…
We present examples of body wave and surface wave propagation in deformed solids where the slowest and the fastest waves do not travel along the directions of least and greatest stretch, respectively. These results run counter to commonly…
We determine the spectrum of particles accelerated at shocks with arbitrary speed and arbitrary scattering properties for different choices of the equation of state of the downstream plasma. More specifically we consider the effect of…
Recent developments of the weak turbulence theory applied to internal waves exhibit a power-law solution of the kinetic energy equation close to the oceanic Garrett \& Munk spectrum, confirming weakly nonlinear wave interactions as a likely…
We use exponential asymptotic analysis to identify the relevance of Stokes' phenomenon to integrability in discrete systems. We study Stokes' phenomenon in two discrete problems with the same (leading-order) continuous limit, a…
We propose a Stokes expansion ansatz for finite-depth standing water waves in two dimensions and devise a recursive algorithm to compute the expansion coefficients. We implement the algorithm on a supercomputer using arbitrary-precision…
We experimentally study linear and nonlinear waves on the surface of a fluid covered by an elastic sheet where both tension and flexural waves take place. An optical method is used to obtain the full space-time wave field, and the…
In this paper, a mathematical model of two adjacent rigid particles immersed into a viscous incompressible fluid is considered. The main feature of the flow is that the Cauchy stress tensor consisting of the strain tensor and the pressure…
Recent analysis of the divergence constraint in the incompressible Stokes/Navier--Stokes problem has stressed the importance of equivalence classes of forces and how it plays a fundamental role for an accurate space discretization. Two…
Three-dimensional excitable systems can create nonlinear scroll waves that rotate around one-dimensional phase singularities. Recent theoretical work predicts that these filaments drift along step-like height variations. Here we test this…
A stationary stable solution of the Stokes equations for three identical heavy solid spheres falling in a vertical plane is found. It has no analog in the point-particle approximation. Three spheres aligned horizontally at equal distances…
In this paper, we construct a simple and robust two-point finite volume discretization applicable to isotropic linearized elasticity, valid in also in the incompressible Stokes' limit. The discretization is based only on co-located,…