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Related papers: The pressure distribution in extreme Stokes waves

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The solar atmosphere is magnetically structured and highly dynamic. Owing to the dynamic nature of the regions in which the magnetic structures exist, waves can be excited in them. Numerical investigations of wave propagation in small-scale…

Solar and Stellar Astrophysics · Physics 2015-03-19 G. Vigeesh , O. Steiner , S. S. Hasan

We overview the recent result [3, Theorem 1.1] about the high-frequency instability of Stokes waves subject to longitudinal perturbations. The spectral bands of unstable eigenvalues away from the origin form a sequence of {\it isolas}…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2025-01-03 Massimiliano Berti , Livia Corsi , Alberto Maspero , Paolo Ventura

We obtain a general solution for the water waves resulting from a general, time-dependent surface pressure distribution, in the presence of a shear current of uniform vorticity beneath the surface, in three dimensions. Linearized governing…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2015-11-10 Yan Li , Simen Å. Ellingsen

We investigate a higher order nonlinear Schr\"odinger equation with linear damping and weak viscosity, recently proposed as a model for deep water waves exhibiting frequency downshifting. Through analysis and numerical simulations, we…

Pattern Formation and Solitons · Physics 2023-10-17 A. Calini , C. L. Ellisor , C. M. Schober , E. Smith

Direct numerical simulations are conducted to study the receptivity and transition mechanisms in a solitary wave boundary layer developing over randomly organized wave-like bottom topography. The boundary layer flow shows a selective…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2021-02-24 Asim Önder , Philip L. -F. Liu

This paper proves long-standing conjectures regarding the existence of infinitely many high-frequency modulational instability ``isolas" for a Stokes wave in arbitrary depth $ \mathtt{h} > 0 $, under longitudinal perturbations. We provide a…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2025-08-26 Massimiliano Berti , Livia Corsi , Alberto Maspero , Paolo Ventura

Nonlinear wave interactions affect the evolution of steep wave groups, their breaking and the associated kinematic field. Laboratory experiments are performed to investigate the effect of the underlying focussing mechanism on the shape of…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2018-03-05 Alberto Alberello , Amin Chabchoub , Jason Monty , Filippo Nelli , Jung Lee , John Elsnab , Alessandro Toffoli

We prove that for a large class of vorticity functions the crest of a corresponding travelling water wave is necessarily a point of maximal horizontal velocity. We also show that for waves with nonpositive vorticity the pressure in the flow…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2008-03-26 Eugen Varvaruca

Correct prediction of particle transport by surface waves is crucial in many practical applications such as search and rescue or salvage operations and pollution tracking and clean-up efforts. Recent results have indicated transport by…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2023-01-26 D. Eeltink , R. Calvert , J. E. Swagemakers , Qian Xiao , T. S. van den Bremer

The stability and transition in the bottom boundary layer under a solitary wave are analysed in the presence of finite amplitude disturbances. First, the receptivity of the boundary layer is investigated using a linear input-output…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2020-07-15 Asim Önder , Philip Li-Fan Liu

The Stokes equation with the varying viscosity is considered in a thin tube structure, i.e. in a connected union of thin rectangles with heights of order $\varepsilon<<1 $ and with bases of order 1 with smoothened boundary. An asymptotic…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2014-03-25 G. Cardone , R. Fares , G. P. Panasenko

This study investigates the signatures of pressure extrema on global oscillations in discs. To this end, we use the framework of wave topology to establish a generalised local dispersion relation that includes pressure gradients. We…

Earth and Planetary Astrophysics · Physics 2026-04-29 Armand Leclerc , Guillaume Laibe , Elliot Lynch , Nicolas Perez

The paper reports on the quasi-static steady flow of a dry liquid foam around a fixed spherical bead, few times larger than the typical bubble size. The force exerted on the bead is recorded with a precision and a time resolution large…

Soft Condensed Matter · Physics 2009-11-11 Isabelle Cantat , Olivier Pitois

Intuitively, crest speeds of water waves are assumed to match their phase velocities. However, this is generally not the case for natural waves within unsteady wave groups. This motivates our study, which presents new insights into the…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2020-07-22 Francesco Fedele , Michael L. Banner , Xavier Barthelemy

A stochastic second-order wave model is applied to assess the statistical properties of wave orbital velocity in random sea states below the water surface. Directional spreading effects as well as the dependency of the water depth are…

There is a clear distinction between simple laminar and complex turbulent fluids. But in some cases, as for the nocturnal planetary boundary layer, a stable and well-ordered flow can develop intense and sporadic bursts of turbulent activity…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2015-06-17 C. Rorai , P. D. Mininni , A. Pouquet

A new highly efficient method is developed for computation of traveling periodic waves (Stokes waves) on the free surface of deep water. A convergence of numerical approximation is determined by the complex singularites above the free…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2019-04-02 Pavel M. Lushnikov , Sergey A. Dyachenko , Denis A. Silantyev

We consider incompressible flows between two transversely vibrating solid walls and construct an asymptotic expansion of solutions of the Navier-Stokes equations in the limit when both the amplitude of vibrations and the thickness of the…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2011-08-16 Konstantin Ilin , Andrey Morgulis

This paper considers two-dimensional gravity solitary waves moving through a body of density stratified water lying below vacuum. The fluid domain is assumed to lie above an impenetrable flat ocean bed, while the interface between the water…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2021-07-30 Robin Ming Chen , Samuel Walsh , Miles H. Wheeler

We address Euler's equations for irrotational gravity waves in an infinitely deep fluid rewritten in conformal variables. Stokes waves are traveling waves with the smooth periodic profile. In agreement with the previous numerical results,…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2025-03-21 Sergey Dyachenko , Dmitry E. Pelinovsky