Related papers: On a unified breaking onset threshold for gravity …
Accurate prediction of the onset and strength of breaking surface gravity waves is a long-standing problem of significant theoretical and applied interest. Recently, Barth\'el\'emy et al (https://doi.org/10.1017/jfm.2018.93) examined the…
We investigate the validity and robustness of the Barthelemy et al. (2018) breaking wave onset prediction framework for surface gravity water waves in arbitrary water depth, including shallow water breaking over varying bathymetry. We show…
The process of breaking in surface gravity waves can be characterized by two distinct stages. Breaking onset, defined as the first visible surface manifestation of breaking, is preceded by breaking inception, which is characterized by the…
The criterion for the initiation of breaking demonstrated numerically by Barthelemy et al. (2015) has been investigated in the laboratory for unidirectional wave groups in deep-water and extended to include conditions of moderate wind…
Using the same measurement techniques as those of Saket et al. (2017), we have investigated the breaking threshold proposed by Barthelemy et al. (arXiv:1508.06002v1, 2015b) but for different classes of unforced unidirectional wave groups in…
We revisit the classical but as yet unresolved problem of predicting the strength of breaking 2-D and 3-D gravity water waves, as quantified by the amount of wave energy dissipated per breaking event. Following Duncan (1983), the wave…
A dynamical understanding of the physical process of surface gravity wave breaking remains an unresolved problem in fluid dynamics. Conceptually, breaking can be described by inception and onset, where breaking inception is the initiation…
The breaking of surface gravity waves is a key process contributing to air-sea fluxes and turbulent ocean mixing. The highly nonlinear nature of wave breaking, combined with the challenges of observing this process in a laboratory or field…
This paper addresses deep-water gravity waves of finite amplitude generated by an initial disturbance to the water. It is assumed that the horizontal dimensions of the initially disturbed body of the water are much larger than the magnitude…
Deep-water surface wave breaking affects the transfer of mass, momentum, energy and heat between the air and sea. Understanding when and how the onset of wave breaking will occur remains a challenge. The mechanisms that form steep waves,…
We present a dynamical-systems perspective on wave breaking for ideal incompressible free-surface flows. By tracking the most energetic hotspot on the wave surface, we find that near breaking the surface slope m evolves on a fast timescale…
The gravity water waves equations describe the evolution of the surface of an incompressible, irrotational fluid in the presence of gravity. The classical regularity threshold for the well-posedness of this system requires initial velocity…
Wave steepness is a key geometric variable for describing breaking occurrence and its consequences, including energy dissipation and air entrainment. Using three laboratory campaigns under varying spectral conditions and co-flowing wind…
Nonlinear initial-boundary value problem on deep-water gravity waves of finite amplitude is solved approximately (up to small terms of higher order) assuming that the waves are generated by an initial disturbance to the water and the…
The modeling of wave breaking dissipation in coastal areas is investigated with a fully nonlinear and dispersive wave model. The wave propagation model is based on potential flow theory, which initially assumes non-overturning waves.…
Observations show that maximally-steep breaking water wave crest speeds are much slower than expected. We report a wave-crest slowdown mechanism generic to unsteady propagating deep water wave groups. Our fully nonlinear computations show…
Triad resonances for gravity waves propagating in opposite direction with respect to uniform current are introduced. They are produced by multivalued and anisotropic dispersion and occur even in deep water. In contrast, existing literature…
Intuitively, crest speeds of water waves are assumed to match their phase velocities. However, this is generally not the case for natural waves within unsteady wave groups. This motivates our study, which presents new insights into the…
We consider the spectra of the 2-dim gravity waves of finite depth linearized at a uniform monotonic shear flow $U(x_2)$, $x_2 \in (-h, 0)$, where the wave numbers $k$ of the horizontal variable $x_1$ is treated as a parameter. Our main…
The kinematic properties of unsteady highly non-linear 3D wave groups have been investigated using a numerical wave tank. Although carrier wave speeds based on zero-crossing analysis remain within +-7% of linear theory predictions, crests…