Related papers: Geometric phases of water waves
Horizontal Lagrangian velocities and accelerations at the surface of steep water-waves are studied by Particle Tracking Velocimetry (PTV) for gradually increasing crest heights up to the inception of a spilling breaker. Localized steep…
A general local approach for the definition of velocities and especially phase velocities for waves recently proposed for one-dimensional waves is generalized for 2 and 3 dimensional scalar wave. A geometrically consistent generalization…
A weakly nonlinear theory has been proposed and developed for calculating the energy- transfer rate to individual waves in a group. It is shown what portion of total energy- transfer rate, over the envelope of wave group, affects individual…
We derive scaling laws for the steady spectrum of wind excited waves, assuming two inviscid fluids (air and water) and no surface tension, an approximation valid at large speeds. In this limit there exists an unique (small) dimensionless…
Underwater wireless optical communication is one of the critical technologies for buoy-based high-speed cross-sea surface communication, where the communication nodes are vertically deployed. Due to the vertically inhomogeneous nature of…
Random geometric graphs (RGG) can be formalized as hidden-variables models where the hidden variables are the coordinates of the nodes. Here we develop a general approach to extract the typical configurations of a generic hidden-variables…
It is well-known that the Camassa-Holm (CH) equation admits both of the peaked and cusped solitary waves in shallow water. However, it was an open question whether or not the exact wave equations can admit them in finite water depth.…
Wind topographically forced by hills and sand dunes accelerates on the upwind (stoss) slopes and reduces on the downwind (lee) slopes. This secondary wind regime, however, possesses a subtle effect, reported here for the first time from…
A new description for highly nonlinear potential water waves is suggested, where weak 3D effects are included as small corrections to exact 2D equations written in conformal variables. Contrary to the traditional approach, a small parameter…
We present a graph theory-based method to characterise flow defects and structural shifts in condensed matter. We explore the connection between dynamical properties, particularly the recently introduced concept of ''softness'', and…
Many models of shallow water waves admit peaked solitary waves. However, it is an open question whether or not the widely accepted peaked solitary waves can be derived from the fully nonlinear wave equations. In this paper, a unified wave…
Recent research shows that the surface wave energy dissipation, which is the vertical energy flux across the air-sea interface, can be calculated as the product of air density, reference wind speed cubed and an energy transfer coefficient…
The process of breaking in surface gravity waves can be characterized by two distinct stages. Breaking onset, defined as the first visible surface manifestation of breaking, is preceded by breaking inception, which is characterized by the…
Underwater acoustic (UWA) communication plays a key role in the process of exploring and studying the ocean. In this paper, a modified non-stationary wideband channel model for UWA communication in shallow water scenarios is proposed. In…
The gradual suppression of the vertical motions and the emergence of large-scale horizontal structures are characteristics of a stratified wake flow. We isolate the resulting wake meandering from the stationary velocity, i.e., the velocity…
Accurate prediction of the onset and strength of breaking surface gravity waves is a long-standing problem of significant theoretical and applied interest. Recently, Barth\'el\'emy et al (https://doi.org/10.1017/jfm.2018.93) examined the…
Recent research has shed light on the role of coherent structures in forming layers when stably stratified turbulence is forced with horizontal shear (Lucas, Caulfield & Kerswell, J. Fluid Mech., vol. 832, 2017, pp. 409-437). Here we extend…
Inhomogeneities in the wave field due to wave groups, currents, and shoaling among other ocean processes can affect the mean water level. In this work, the classical and unsolved problem of continuously computing the set-down and the…
This article provides a survey on some main results and recent developments in the mathematical theory of water waves. More precisely, we briefly discuss the mathematical modeling of water waves and then we give an overview of local and…
We analyze the linear stability of monoclinal traveling waves on a constant incline, which connect uniform flowing regions of differing depths. The classical shallow-water equations are employed, subject to a general resistive drag term.…