Related papers: Extreme wave runup on a vertical cliff
Interfacial internal wave excitation in the wake of towed ships is studied experimentally in a quasi-two layer fluid. At a critical `resonant' towing velocity, whose value depends on the structure of the vertical density profile, the…
Spiral waves are striking self-organized coherent structures that organize spatio-temporal dynamics in dissipative, spatially extended systems. In this paper, we provide a conceptual approach to various properties of spiral waves. Rather…
The majority of coastal flows are characterized by turbulence, rendering the application of shallow water equations an inadequate approach for their accurate description. This paper presents a theory for characterizing accelerated coastal…
The criterion for the initiation of breaking demonstrated numerically by Barthelemy et al. (2015) has been investigated in the laboratory for unidirectional wave groups in deep-water and extended to include conditions of moderate wind…
Nonlinear water waves interacting with quasi-one-dimensional, non-uniformly periodic bed profiles are studied numerically in the deep-water regime with the help of approximate equations for envelopes of the forward and backward waves.…
The problem of tsunami wave shoaling and runup in U-shaped bays (such as fjords) and underwater canyons is studied in the framework of shallow water theory. The wave shoaling in bays, when the depth varies smoothly along the channel axis,…
Using the same measurement techniques as those of Saket et al. (2017), we have investigated the breaking threshold proposed by Barthelemy et al. (arXiv:1508.06002v1, 2015b) but for different classes of unforced unidirectional wave groups in…
This study compares turbulent channel flows over elastic walls with those over rough walls, to explore the role of the dynamic change of shape of the wall on turbulence. The comparison is made meaningful by generating rough walls from…
The modulational instability of waves in a medium under the action of an external monochromatic force and dissipation is considered. The model which describes the nonlinear stage of the modulation instability was constructed with using…
In the design process of marine structures like offshore wind turbines the long-term distribution of significant wave height needs to be modelled to estimate loads. This is typically done by fitting a translated Weibull distribution to wave…
We focus on solitary waves generated in arrays of lightly contacting spherical elastic granules by shock forces of steep rise and slow decay durations, and establish a priori: (i) whether the peak value of the resulting solitary wave would…
The numerical simulation of the nonlinear dynamics of random sea waves at moderately small Benjamin-Feir indices and its comparison with the linear dynamics (at the coincidence of spatial Fourier harmonics near a spectral peak at a certain…
We study probability distributions of waves of topplings in the Bak-Tang-Wiesenfeld model on hypercubic lattices for dimensions D>=2. Waves represent relaxation processes which do not contain multiple toppling events. We investigate bulk…
The issue of accounting of the wave breaking phenomenon in direct numerical simulations of oceanic waves is discussed. It is emphasized that this problem is crucial for the deterministic description of waves, and also for the dynamical…
The evolution of crossing sea states and the emergence of rogue waves in such systems are studied via numerical simulations performed using a higher order spectral method to solve the free surface Euler equations with a flat bottom. Two…
The impact of a plunging breaking wave (wavelength approximately 1.3m) on a rigidly mounted rigid cube structure (dimension 0.31m) that is partially submerged is explored through experiments and numerical calculations. The experiments are…
Considering two-dimensional potential ideal flow with free surface and finite depth, we study the dynamics of small-amplitude and short-wavelength wavetrains propagating on the background of a steepening nonlinear wave. This can be seen as…
Natural Disasters like hurricanes, floods or earthquakes can damage power grid devices and create cascading blackouts and islands. The nature of failure propagation and extent of damage is dependent on the structural features of the grid,…
An analytical treatment of a propagating wave packet incident on a transient barrier reveals a counterintuitive quantum mechanical effect in which, for a particular time interval, the time-varying transmission probability {\it exceeds}…
Extreme events, such as wave-storms, need to be characterized for coastal infrastructure design purposes. Such description should contain information on both the univariate behaviour and the joint-dependence of storm-variables. These two…