Related papers: Extreme wave runup on a vertical cliff
Manipulating elastic waves using a transformation approach is challenging due to the complex constitutive relationship. However, for flexural waves, approximated as scalar waves, two straightforward approaches emerge based on geometric…
Wave impact loads on maritime structures can cause casualties, damage, pollution and operational delays. Consequently, their extreme values should be accounted for in the design of these structures. However, this is challenging, as wave…
Wave steepness is a key geometric variable for describing breaking occurrence and its consequences, including energy dissipation and air entrainment. Using three laboratory campaigns under varying spectral conditions and co-flowing wind…
This study explores experimentally the turbulent flow in a laboratory flume, interacting with waves propagated against the flow. It focuses a region of wave-blocking for which there is a streamwise location on the water surface, where the…
Rogue waves are extreme ocean events characterized by the sudden formation of anomalously large crests, and remain an important subject of investigation in oceanography and mathematics. A central problem is to quantify the probability of…
We examine the applicability of the weak wave turbulence theory in explaining experimental scaling results obtained for the diffusion and relative diffusion of particles moving on turbulent surface waves. For capillary waves our theoretical…
We compare two high order finite-difference methods that solve the elastic wave equation in two dimensional domains with curved boundaries and material discontinuities. Two numerical experiments are designed with focus on wave boundary…
We discuss the effects of the directional spreading on the occurrence of extreme wave events. We numerically integrate the envelope equation recently proposed by Trulsen et al., Phys of Fluids 2000, as a weakly nonlinear model for realistic…
The recent theoretical discovery of families of travelling wave solutions in pipe flow at Reynolds numbers lower than the transitional range naturally raises the question of their relevance to the turbulent transition process. Here a series…
Icicles with wave patterns on their surfaces can sometimes be seen hanging from roofs of buildings. Surprisingly, most of these wave patterns are at intervals of about 1 cm. The reason for this uniformity of interval has not been clarified.…
We report experimental observations of two canonical surface wave patterns --- ship waves and ring waves --- skewed by sub-surface shear, thus confirming effects predicted by recent theory. Observed ring waves on a still surface with…
There are many examples in physics of systems showing rogue wave behaviour, the generation of high amplitude events at low probability. Although initially studied in oceanography, rogue waves have now been seen in many other domains, with…
Waves propagating through a weakly scattering random medium show a pronounced branching of the flow accompanied by the formation of freak waves, i.e., extremely intense waves. Theory predicts that this strong fluctuation regime is…
Laboratory experiments reveal that variations in bottom topography can qualitatively alter the distribution of randomized surface waves. A normally-distributed, unidirectional wave field becomes highly skewed and non-Gaussian upon…
Reflection of a normal incident matter wave by a perfectly reflecting wall moving with a constant velocity is investigated. A surprising phenomenon is found-that if the the wall moves faster than the phase velocity of the incident wave,…
The modeling of wave breaking dissipation in coastal areas is investigated with a fully nonlinear and dispersive wave model. The wave propagation model is based on potential flow theory, which initially assumes non-overturning waves.…
For scalar semilinear wave equations, we analyze the interaction of two (distorted) plane waves at an interface between media of different nonlinear properties. We show that new waves are generated from the nonlinear interactions, which…
Capillary waves excited by the vertical oscillations of a thin elongated plate below an air-water interface are analyzed using time-resolved measurements of the surface topography. A parametric instability is observed above a well defined…
In this Letter, we experimentally investigate the collapse of initially dry granular media into water and the subsequent impulse waves. We systematically characterize the influence of the slope angle and the granular material on the initial…
Ocean wind waves are a fundamental manifestation of complex dynamics in geophysical fluid systems, characterized by a rich interplay between dispersion and nonlinearity. While linear wave theory provides a first-order description of wave…