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Real-time estimation of ocean wave heights using high-frequency (HF) radar has attracted great attention. This method offers the benefit of easy maintenance by virtue of its ground-based installation. However, it is adversely affected by…

Numerical Analysis · Mathematics 2025-05-20 Kaede Watanabe , Toshiaki Yachimura , Tsubasa Terada , Hiroshi Kameda , Ryuhei Takahashi , Hiroshi Suito

The wave spectral properties in the centimeter to decameter (cmDm) wavelength range is of great interest to ocean remote sensing and studies of ocean surface processes including the surface roughness, air-sea energy and momentum exchanges,…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2019-06-20 Paul A. Hwang

Sand fences are widely applied to prevent soil erosion by wind in areas affected by desertification. Sand fences also provide a way to reduce the emission rate of dust particles, which is triggered mainly by the impacts of wind-blown sand…

Computational Physics · Physics 2017-02-20 Izael A. Lima , Ascânio D. Araújo , Eric J. R. Parteli , José S. Andrade , Hans J. Herrmann

A~machine learning framework is developed to estimate ocean-wave conditions. By supervised training of machine learning models on many thousands of iterations of a physics-based wave model, accurate representations of significant wave…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2017-09-27 Scott C. James , Yushan Zhang , Fearghal O'Donncha

Ambient noise measured in the deep ocean is studied in the context of a search for signals from ultra-high energy cosmic ray neutrinos. The spectral shape of the noise at the relevant high frequencies is found to be very stable for an…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2010-11-23 Naoko Kurahashi , Giorgio Gratta

Stochastic wind sea is an intermediate small-scale physical process responsible for the state of the atmospheric boundary layer and the water upper layer, having dynamics of all scales. To describe behavior of this system, one could use the…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2010-09-13 Vladislav Polnikov

The rapid growth of offshore wind energy requires accurate modeling of the wind resource, which can be depleted by wind farm wakes. Turbulence dissipation rate governs the accuracy of model predictions of hub-height wind speed and the…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2020-05-20 Nicola Bodini , Julie K. Lundquist , Anthony Kirincich

The coupling between wind-waves and atmospheric surface layer turbulence sets surface drag. This coupling is however usually represented through a roughness length. Originally suggested on purely dimensional grounds, this roughness length…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2021-03-12 Alex Ayet , Bertrand Chapron , Peter Sutherland , Gabriel G. Katul

Current projects for large telescopes demand a proper knowledge of atmospheric turbulence to design efficient adaptive optics systems in order to reach large Strehl ratios. However, the proper characterization of the turbulence above a…

Instrumentation and Methods for Astrophysics · Physics 2015-05-13 B. Garcia-Lorenzo , A. Eff-Darwich , J. J. Fuensalida , J. Castro-Almazan

Global observations of ocean swell, from satellite Synthetic Aperture Radar data, are used to estimate the dissipation of swell energy for a number of storms. Swells can be very persistent with energy e-folding scales exceeding 20,000 km.…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2009-11-13 Fabrice Ardhuin , Bertrand Chapron , Fabrice Collard

Ocean wave climate has a significant impact on near-shore and off-shore human activities, and its characterisation can help in the design of ocean structures such as wave energy converters and sea dikes. Therefore, engineers need long time…

Machine Learning · Statistics 2022-05-27 Said Obakrim , Valérie Monbet , Nicolas Raillard , Pierre Ailliot

To aid in prediction of turbulent boundary layer flows over rough surfaces, a new model is proposed to estimate hydrodynamic roughness based solely on geometric surface information. The model is based on a fluid-mechanics motivated…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2024-12-18 Charles Meneveau , Nicholas Hutchins , Daniel Chung

Sea-level rise poses considerable risks to coastal communities, ecosystems, and infrastructure. Decision makers are faced with uncertain sea-level projections when designing a strategy for coastal adaptation. The traditional methods are…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2018-06-05 Gregory G. Garner , Klaus Keller

Significant wave height is one of the most important parameters characterizing ocean waves, and accurate numerical ocean wave forecasting is crucial for coastal protection and shipping. However, due to the randomness and nonlinearity of the…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2023-12-01 Wei Zhang , Yu Sun , Yapeng Wu , Junyu Dong , Xiaojiang Song , Zhiyi Gao , Renbo Pang , Boyu Guoan

Near-surface atmospheric conditions can differ sharply over tens to hundreds of meters due to land cover and topography, yet this variability is absent from current weather analyses and forecasts. It is unclear whether such meter-scale…

Conventionally neutral atmospheric boundary layers (CNBLs), which are characterized with zero surface potential temperature flux and capped by an inversion of potential temperature, are frequently encountered in nature. Therefore,…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2022-07-06 Luoqin Liu , Srinidhi N. Gadde , Richard J. A. M. Stevens

The sea surface height budget, obtained by integrating hydrostatic balance over the water column, relates sea surface height variations to variations of the seafloor pressure, density in the water column, and atmospheric surface pressure.…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2025-08-25 Jörn Callies , Charly de Marez , Jinbo Wang , Bruce Haines

As winds blow over sand, grains are mobilized and reorganized into bedforms such as ripples and dunes. In turn, sand transport and bedforms affect the winds themselves. These complex interactions between winds and sediment render modeling…

Geophysics · Physics 2025-06-17 C. A. Alvarez , M. G. A. Lapôtre , C. Swann , R. C. Ewing , P. Jia , P. Claudin

This study corrects the hypsometric equation by restoring the nontraditional terms to relax the hydrostatic approximation. The nontraditional terms include one Coriolis term and two metric terms in the vertical momentum equation. The…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2020-11-20 Hing Ong , Paul E. Roundy

This paper considers two-dimensional stably stratified steady periodic gravity water waves with surface profiles monotonic between crests and troughs. We provide sufficient conditions under which such waves are necessarily symmetric. This…

Mathematical Physics · Physics 2009-03-06 Samuel Walsh