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Extreme sea level estimates are fundamental for mitigating against coastal flooding as they provide insight for defence engineering. As the global climate changes, rising sea levels combined with increases in storm intensity and frequency…

Methodology · Statistics 2022-08-02 Eleanor D'Arcy , Jonathan A. Tawn

Traditional significant wave height (SWH) estima- tion from HF radar typically relies on spectral analysis of the received radar signals. This process was previously simplified by establishing a linear relationship between SWH and the…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2026-03-19 Senal Chandrasekara , Reza Shahidi

Coastal erosion describes the displacement of land caused by destructive sea waves, currents or tides. Major efforts have been made to mitigate these effects using groins, breakwaters and various other structures. We try to address this…

Optimization and Control · Mathematics 2022-09-16 Luka Schlegel , Volker Schulz

The stability and transition in the bottom boundary layer under a solitary wave are analysed in the presence of finite amplitude disturbances. First, the receptivity of the boundary layer is investigated using a linear input-output…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2020-07-15 Asim Önder , Philip Li-Fan Liu

A porous fence can be used as a shelter to reduce wind-induced erosion and the dispersion of dust particles from sand piles. Although many experimental and numerical studies have been carried out to analyze the effect of a porous fence on…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2023-05-02 Adnan Tolga Kurumus , Nazhmiddin Nasyrlayev , Ender Demirel

This is a numerical study of wind pressure loads on low rise buildings in which three different types of roofs were analyzed which are the flat, gable and circular roof at different wind speed. The numerical analysis was performed using…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2023-09-21 Saidi Olayinka Olalere , Olufemi Alayode

The amount of air entrained by vertical water jets impacting a large pool is revisited. To test available phenomenological models, new data on the jet deformation at impact and on the entrained air flow rate were collected both on a…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2024-11-11 Ivan Redor , Gregory Guyot , Martin Obligado , Jean-Philippe Matas , Alain Cartellier

Density stratification in geophysical environments can be non-uniform, particularly in thermohaline staircases and atmospheric layer transitions. Non-uniform stratification, however, is often approximated by the average ambient density…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2020-11-10 G. D. Portwood , S. M. de Bruyn Kops

While a theoretical limit has long been established for the performance of a single turbine, no corresponding upper bound exists for the power output from a large wind farm, making it difficult to evaluate the available potential for…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2018-09-19 Paolo Luzzatto-Fegiz , Colm-cille P. Caulfield

A new description for highly nonlinear potential water waves is suggested, where weak 3D effects are included as small corrections to exact 2D equations written in conformal variables. Contrary to the traditional approach, a small parameter…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2009-11-11 Victor P. Ruban

We consider the linearized instability of 2D irrotational solitary water waves. The maxima of energy and the travel speed of solitary waves are not obtained at the highest wave, which has a 120 degree angle at the crest. Under the…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2008-03-05 Zhiwu Lin

Accurate wave height prediction is critical for maritime safety and coastal resilience, yet conventional physics-based models and traditional machine learning methods face challenges in computational efficiency and nonlinear dynamics…

Machine Learning · Computer Science 2025-09-03 Yilin Zhai , Hongyuan Shi , Chao Zhan , Qing Wang , Zaijin You , Nan Wang

Over recent decades, the Arctic Ocean has experienced dramatic changes due to climate change. Retreating sea ice has opened up large areas of ocean, resulting in an enhanced wave climate. Taking into account the intense seasonality and the…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2020-10-14 Isabela S. Cabral , Ian R. Young , Alessandro Toffoli

Most of the existing prediction methods gave a false alarm regarding the El Ni\~no event in 2014. A crucial aspect is currently limiting the success of such predictions, i.e. the stability of the slowly varying Pacific climate. This…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2017-08-31 Qing Yi Feng , Henk A. Dijkstra

For the dynamic analysis of floating offshore wind turbines (FOWTs) in realistic operating environment, this paper develops a coupled aero-hydro-mooring-servo model applicable to turbulent wind and irregular sea states with high…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2026-01-06 Yi Zhang , Peter Stansby , David Apsley , Hannah Mullings

We review recent progress in modeling the probability distribution of wave heights in the deep ocean as a function of a small number of parameters describing the local sea state. Both linear and nonlinear mechanisms of rogue wave formation…

Chaotic Dynamics · Physics 2012-07-11 L. H. Ying , Z. Zhuang , E. J. Heller , L. Kaplan

The core properties of the wave climate and its changes in the Caspian Sea are established in terms of the annual mean significant wave height and its regional changes in 2002-2013 based on the outcome of the satellite altimetry mission…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2019-12-03 Nadezhda Kudryavtseva , Kuanysh Kussembayeva , Zaure B. Rakisheva , Tarmo Soomere

Linear stability of fully developed flows of air over water is carried out in order to study non-linear effects in the generation of solitons by wind. A linear stability analysis of the basic flow is made and the conditions at which…

Pattern Formation and Solitons · Physics 2017-05-01 Shahrdad G. Sajjadi , Harihar Khanal

Projections of extreme sea levels (ESLs) are critical for managing coastal risks, but are made complicated by deep uncertainties. One key uncertainty is the choice of model structure used to estimate coastal hazards. Differences in model…

Data Analysis, Statistics and Probability · Physics 2020-06-15 Tony E. Wong , Travis Torline , Mingxuan Zhang

We estimate the Hurst parameter $H \in (0,1)$ of a fractional Brownian motion from discrete noisy data, observed along a high frequency sampling scheme. When the intensity $\tau_n$ of the noise is smaller in order than $n^{-H}$ we establish…

Statistics Theory · Mathematics 2022-05-27 Grégoire Szymanski
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