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Inhomogeneity generated waves, discovered more than a decade ago, play an important role in processes like energy transfer, turbulence generation, heating, etc. To understand the nature of these waves we developed the formalism that looks…
Because wind-generated waves can propagate over large distances, wave spectra from a fixed point can record information about air-sea interactions in distant areas. In this study, the spectral wave climate is computed for a specific…
We present a scaling technique which transforms the evolution problem for a nonlinear wave equation with small initial data to a linear wave equation with a distributional source. The exact solution of the latter uniformly approximates the…
The mild-slope equation and its various modifications aim to model, with varying degrees of success, linear water wave propagation over sloping or undulating seabed topography. However, despite multiple modifications and attempted…
This paper presents a novel method for obtaining the probability wave of breaking ($P_b$) of deep water, dominant wind-sea waves (that is, waves made of the energy within $\pm$30\% of the peak wave frequency) derived from Gaussian wave…
In this paper we focus on the global-in-time existence and the pointwise estimates of solutions to the initial value problem for the semilinear dissipative wave equation in multi-dimensions. By using the method of Green function combined…
Experimental and theoretical studies on wind-wave generation have focused primarily on the air-water interface, where viscous effects are small. Here we characterize the influence of the liquid viscosity on the growth of mechanically…
Large arrays of wave-absorbing structures could serve the double objective of coastal protection against erosion and clean, renewable electrical power production. In this work, the principle of an artificial canopy is explored, which…
We report the outcome of evaluations of the skill of long-range forecasts from the ocean wave model component of the Navy's global coupled modeling system. Specifically, the model output is taken from a single member of the ensemble system,…
The paper is devoted to the presentation of the non-spectral methods of analysis of the natural measurements of the internal gravity waves in the ocean with the purpose to determine characteristics of the wave-trains composing the measured…
Waves can drastically transform a sea ice cover by inducing break-up over vast distances in the course of a few hours. However, relatively few detailed studies have described this phenomenon in a quantitative manner, and the process of sea…
A review of three-dimensional waves on deep-water is presented. Three forms of three dimensionality, namely oblique, forced and spontaneous type, are identified. An alternative formulation for these three-dimensional waves is given through…
We consider evolution of wave pulses with formation of dispersive shock waves in framework of fully nonlinear shallow-water equations. Situations of initial elevations or initial dips on the water surface are treated and motion of the…
In this paper we investigate the dispersive properties of the solutions of the two dimensional water-waves system. First we prove Strichartz type estimates with loss of derivatives at the same low level of regularity we were able to…
This paper presents a new numerical model based on the highly nonlinear potential flow theory for simulating the propagation of water waves in variable depth. A new set of equations for estimating the surface vertical velocity is derived…
Distributions of wave characteristics of ocean waves, such as wave slope, waveheight or wavelength, are an important tool in a variety of oceanographic applications such as safety of ocean structures or in the study of ship stability, as…
We describe the theory and present numerical evidence for a new type of nonlinear resonant interaction between gravity waves on the surface of deep water. The resonance constitutes a generalisation of the usual 'exact' resonance as we show…
We examine two means by which wind can impart energy to waves: sheltering and deposition of material upwards from windward surface shear. The shear driven deposition is shown to be the more efficient process. Lengthening of waves to match…
In this paper, we investigate the wave solutions of a stochastic rotating shallow water model. This approximate model provides an interesting simple description of the interplay between waves and random forcing ensuing either from the wind…
We experimentally study linear and nonlinear waves on the surface of a fluid covered by an elastic sheet where both tension and flexural waves take place. An optical method is used to obtain the full space-time wave field, and the…