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In order to improve the frequency dispersion effects of irrotational shallow water models in coastal oceanography, several full dispersion versions of classical models were formally derived in the literature. The idea, coming from G.…
In this paper, a fractional generalization of the wave equation that describes propagation of damped waves is considered. In contrast to the fractional diffusion-wave equation, the fractional wave equation contains fractional derivatives of…
A formulation is developed to assimilate ocean-wave data into the Numerical Flow Analysis (NFA) code. NFA is a Cartesian-based implicit Large-Eddy Simulation (LES) code with Volume of Fluid (VOF) interface capturing. The sequential…
Sea ice attenuates waves propagating from the open ocean. Here we model the evolution of energetic unidirectional random waves in the marginal ice zone with a nonlinear Schr\"{o}dinger equation, with a frequency dependent dissipative term…
The instability and nonlinear evolution of directional ocean waves is investigated numerically by means of simulations of the governing kinetic equation for narrow-band surface waves. Our simulation results reveal the onset of the…
The criterion for the initiation of breaking demonstrated numerically by Barthelemy et al. (2015) has been investigated in the laboratory for unidirectional wave groups in deep-water and extended to include conditions of moderate wind…
In order to study the growth of wind waves in finite depth we extend Miles' theory to the finite depth domain. A depth-dependent wave growth rate is derived from the dispersion relation of the wind/water interface. A suitable dimensionless…
This paper presents a novel quantification of the fraction of broken waves (Qb) in natural surf zones using data from seven wave-dominated Australian beaches. Qb is a critical, but rarely quantified, parameter for parametric surf zone…
We have measured the energy and dissipation of Alfvenic waves in the quiet Sun. A magnetic field was used to infer the location and orientation of the magnetic field lines along which the waves are expected to travel. The waves were…
A generalization of the kinetic equation is proposed for explaining observed shapes of wind wave spectra. The approach allows to fix a critical uncertainty in modeling wind wave spectra using a condition of equilibrium of nonlinear transfer…
We study analytically and numerically a frequency downshifting due to power-type frequency-dependent decay of surface waves in the ocean covered by ice floes. The downshifting is obtained both within the linear model and within the…
Existing theoretical results for attenuation of surface waves propagating on water of random fluctuating depth are shown to over predict the rate of decay due to the way in which ensemble averaging is performed. A revised approach is…
Wind waves are considered as an intermediate small-scale dynamic process at the air-sea interface,which modulates radically middle-scale dynamic processes of the boundary layers in water and air. It is shown that with the aim of a…
A family of Camassa-Holm type equations with a linear term and cubic and quartic nonlinearities is considered. Local well-posedness results are established via Kato's approach. Conserved quantities for the equation are determined and from…
In this paper, we characterize a class of solutions to the unsteady 2-dimensional flow of a van der Waals fluid involving shock waves, and derive an asymptotic amplitude equation exhibiting quadratic and cubic nonlinearities including…
The turbulent spectrum of magnetic fluctuations in the solar wind displays a spectral break at ion characteristic scales. At electron scales the spectral shape is not yet completely established. Here, we perform a statistical study of 102…
Real-time sea state estimation is vital for applications like shipbuilding and maritime safety. Traditional methods rely on accurate wave-vessel transfer functions to estimate wave spectra from onboard sensors. In contrast, our approach…
We study the asymptotic behavior of solutions for the semilinear damped wave equation with variable coefficients. We prove that if the damping is effective, and the nonlinearity and other lower order terms can be regarded as perturbations,…
A novel D-model of wave turbulence is presented which allows to reproduce in a single frame various nonlinear wave phenomena such as intermittency, formation and direction of energy cascades, possible growth of nonlinearity due to direct…
Partial-wave analysis is one step in a process connecting experimental measurements to the N* states we are studying. Progress has been made in the area of `model-independent' analysis. However, more model-dependent approaches are needed to…