Related papers: Water waves generated by a moving bottom
The majority of coastal flows are characterized by turbulence, rendering the application of shallow water equations an inadequate approach for their accurate description. This paper presents a theory for characterizing accelerated coastal…
A closed-form expression for the amplitudes of source waves in 2D discrete lattice with local and linear (waveguides) defects is derived. The numerical implementation of this analytic expression is demonstrated by several examples.
Although the equations governing fluid flow are well known, there are no analytical expressions that describe the complexity of turbulent motion. A recent proposition is that in analogy to low dimensional chaotic systems, turbulence is…
Long linear wave transformation in the basin of varying depth is studied for a case of a convex bottom profile in the framework of one-dimensional shallow water equation. The existence of travelling wave solutions in this geometry and the…
We investigate steady symmetric gravity water waves on finite depth. For non-positive vorticity it is shown that the particles display a mean forward drift, and for a class of waves we prove that the size of this drift is strictly…
The Navier-Stokes equations describe fluid flow in many everyday life situations. Newton's second law of motion describes changes in the object's speed when a force applied. The Navier-Stokes equations are equivalent to Newton's Law when…
The dynamics of surface waves traveling along the boundary of a liquid medium are changed by the presence of floating plates and membranes, contributing to a number of important phenomena in a wide range of applications. Mathematically, if…
Wave turbulence and eddy turbulence are the two regimes that we may encounter in nature. The attention of fluid mechanics being mainly focused on incompressible hydrodynamics, it is usually the second regime that is treated in books,…
Special features of surface gravity waves in deep fluid flow with constant vertical shear of velocity is studied. It is found that the mean flow velocity shear leads to non-trivial modification of surface gravity wave modes dispersive…
Turbulent and internal wave motions are important for the exchange of momentum, heat and suspended matter in the deep-sea which is generally stably stratified in density. Turbulence-generation models involve shear of vertical current…
In recent works, we proposed a hypothesis, according to which turbulence in gases is created by the mean field effect of an intermolecular potential. We discovered that, in a numerically simulated inertial flow, turbulent solutions indeed…
The problem of reconstructing non-harmonic internal gravity wave packets generated by a source moving in a stratified ocean is considered. The uniform asymptotic form of the internal gravity waves field generated by a source moving above…
Turbulence is ever produced in the low-viscosity/large-scale fluid flows by the velocity shears and, in unstable stratification, by buoyancy forces. It is commonly believed that both mechanisms produce the same type of chaotic motions,…
We have proposed a new method for solving the problem of ship waves excited on the surface of a non-viscous liquid by a submerged object that moves at a variable speed. As a first application of this method, we have obtained a new solution…
A new modelling approach shows how the Earth's hidden vibrations may drive global weather dynamics and atmospheric pressure variations, hinting that the planet's own beat could be imprinted on our climate. The atmospheric rotational…
The evolution of breaking waves propagating towards the shore and more specifically the run-up phase over the swash-zone for surface as well as for internal waves is considered. The study is based on a) laboratory run up experiments for…
We study traveling wave solutions of an equation for surface waves of moderate amplitude arising as a shallow water approximation of the Euler equations for inviscid, incompressible and homogenous fluids. We obtain solitary waves of…
We review here the derivation of many of the most important models that appear in the literature (mainly in coastal oceanography) for the description of waves in shallow water. We show that these models can be obtained using various…
An extensive data set of water level measurements of the September 2015 Chilean tsunami in rivers in Japan and a new methodology for data processing are used to verify that tsunami dissipation in a river at each instant and locality depends…
The reconstruction of water wave elevation from bottom pressure measurements is an important issue for coastal applications, but corresponds to a difficult mathematical problem. In this paper we present the derivation of a method which…