Related papers: Water waves generated by a moving bottom
Given a distribution of earthquake-induced seafloor elevations, we present a method to compute the probability of the resulting tsunamis reaching a certain size on shore. Instead of sampling, the proposed method relies on optimization to…
A two-dimensional water wave system is examined consisting of two discrete incompressible fluid domains separated by a free common interface. In a geophysical context this is a model of an internal wave, formed at a pycnocline or…
The complex interactions of localized vortices with waves is investigated using a model of point vortices in the presence of a transverse or longitudinal wave. This simple model shows a rich dynamical behavior including oscillations of a…
We construct a family of explicit rotational solutions to the nonlinear governing equations for water waves, describing edge waves propagating over a plane-sloping beach. A detailed analysis of the edge wave dynamics and of the run-up…
Ocean waves are complex and often turbulent. While most ocean wave interactions are essentially linear, sometimes two or more waves interact in a nonlinear way. For example, two or more waves can interact and yield waves that are much…
A basic shallow water system with variable topography is analyzed from the point of view of a Lagrangian derivation of momentum, energy, and pseudomomentum balances. A two-dimensional action and associated momentum equation are derived. The…
We attempt to gain some insight into the modeling of the generation of internal waves produced by submarines traveling in the littoral regions of the ocean with the use of high fidelity numerical simulations. These numerical simulations are…
Wave shoaling of water waves over mild bottom slopes is well described by linearized theories. However, the analytical treatment of nonlinear wave shoaling subject to rapidly varying bottoms has proven to be elusive in the past decades. As…
A gravitational wave must be nonlinear to be able to transport its own source, that is, energy and momentum. A physical gravitational wave, therefore, cannot be represented by a solution to a linear wave equation. Relying on this property,…
Many equations that arise in a physical context can be posed in the form of a Hamiltonian system, meaning that there is a symplectic structure on an appropriate phase space, and a Hamiltonian functional with respect to which time evolution…
By using the Hugoniot curve in detonics as a Riemann invariant of a velocity-pressure model, we get a conservative hyperbolic system similar to the Euler equations. The only differences are the larger value of the adiabatic constant (=…
The problem of the long wave runup on a beach is discussed in the framework of the rigorous solutions of the nonlinear shallow-water theory. The key and novel moment here is the analysis of the runup of a certain class of asymmetric waves,…
In this paper we consider two-dimensional, stratified, steady water waves propagating over an impermeable flat bed and with a free surface. The motion is assumed to be driven by capillarity (that is, surface tension) on the surface and a…
Coastal erosion is a major and growing environmental problem describing the movement of sand caused by tides, waves or currents. Several phenomena contribute to the significant advance of the sea. These include climate change, with rising…
In this paper, we investigate the wave solutions of a stochastic rotating shallow water model. This approximate model provides an interesting simple description of the interplay between waves and random forcing ensuing either from the wind…
We construct small-amplitude steady periodic gravity water waves arising as the free surface of water flows that contain stagnation points and possess a discontinuous distribution of vorticity in the sense that the flows consist of two…
We consider Euler's equations for free surface waves traveling on a body of density stratified water in the scenario when gravity and surface tension act as restoring forces. The flow is continuously stratified, and the water layer is…
We construct small-amplitude periodic water waves with multiple critical layers. In addition to waves with arbitrarily many critical layers and a single crest in each period, two-dimensional sets of waves with several crests and troughs in…
We study a linear model for the propagation of hydro-acoustic waves and tsunami in a stratified free-surface ocean. A formulation was previously obtained by linearizing the compressible Euler equations. The new formulation is obtained by…
Consideration is given to the influence of an underwater landslide on waves at the surface of a shallow body of fluid. The equations of motion which govern the evolution of the barycenter of the landslide mass include various dissipative…