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The topographical scattering of gravity waves is investigated using a spectral energy balance equation that accounts for first order wave-bottom Bragg scattering. This model represents the bottom topography and surface waves with spectra,…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2007-05-23 Rudy Magne , Fabrice Ardhuin , Vincent Rey , Thomas H. C. Herbers

The refraction of surface gravity waves by currents leads to spatial modulations in the wave field and, in particular, in the significant wave height. We examine this phenomenon in the case of waves scattered by a localised current feature,…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2023-11-13 Han Wang , Ana B. Villas Bôas , William R. Young , Jacques Vanneste

The interaction of surface waves with Couette-type current with uniform vorticity is a well suited problem for students approaching the theory of surface waves. The problem, although mathematically simple, contains rich physics, and is…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2014-02-26 Simen Å Ellingsen , Iver Brevik

We analytically study a scattering of long linear surface waves on stationary currents in a duct (canal) of constant depth and variable width. It is assumed that the background velocity linearly increases or decreases with the longitudinal…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2017-09-20 Semyon Churilov , Andrei Ermakov , Yury Stepanyants

The propagation of surface water waves interacting with a current and an uneven bottom is studied. Such a situation is typical for ocean waves where the winds generate currents in the top layer of the ocean. The role of the bottom…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2019-02-19 Alan C. Compelli , Rossen I. Ivanov , Calin I. Martin , Michail D. Todorov

In the linear approximation we study long wave scattering on an axially symmetric flow in a shallow water basin with a drain in the center. This classical problem can be considered as a model of wave scattering on a rotating black hole. For…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2019-05-15 Semyon Churilov , Yury Stepanyants

We derive transport equations for the propagation of water wave action in the presence of a static, spatially random surface drift. Using the Wigner distribution $\W(\x,\k,t)$ to represent the envelope of the wave amplitude at position $\x$…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2007-05-23 Guillaume Bal , Tom Chou

Ocean turbulence at meso- and submesocales affects the propagation of surface waves through refraction and scattering, inducing spatial modulations in significant wave height (SWH). We develop a theoretical framework that relates these…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2025-03-05 Han Wang , Ana B. Villas Bôas , Jacques Vanneste , William R. Young

The impact of a turbulent flow on wind-driven oceanic near-inertial waves is examined using a linearised shallow-water model of the mixed layer. Modelling the flow as a homogeneous and stationary random process with spatial scales…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2016-07-20 Eric Danioux , Jacques Vanneste

Oceanic internal tides and other inertia-gravity waves propagate in an energetic turbulent flow whose lengthscales are similar to the wavelengths. Advection and refraction by this flow cause the scattering of the waves, redistributing their…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2018-11-14 Miles A. C. Savva , Jacques Vanneste

Refraction is the predominant mechanism causing spatially inhomogeneous surface gravity wave fields. However, the complex interplay between depth- and current-induced wave refraction remains poorly understood. Assuming weak currents and…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2025-09-17 Trygve Halsne , Yan Li

Internal waves propagate on the ocean's stratification, carrying energy and redistributing momentum through the ocean. When internal waves break, they contribute to diapycnal mixing in the ocean interior, but this breaking behaviour depends…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2025-07-31 Ashley J. Barnes , Callum J. Shakespeare , Andy McC. Hogg , Navid C. Constantinou

The currents in the ocean have a serious impact on ocean dynamics, since they affect the transport of mass and thus the distribution of salinity, nutrients and pollutants. In many physically important situations the current depends…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2024-10-22 Conor Curtin , Rossen Ivanov

The propagation of surface water waves over rough topographical bottoms is investigated by the multiple scattering theory. It is shown that the waves can be localized spatially through the process of multiple scattering and wave…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2009-11-10 Liang-shan Chen , Zhen Ye

Propagation of surface waves on a background shear flow with constant vorticity is studied and compared against the case when the background flow is uniform in depth. For a shear flow with the linear vertical profile, the dispersion…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2013-10-15 Philippe Maïssa , Germain Rousseaux , Yury Stepanyants

Here I present a general formulation of water wave propagation and scattering over topographical bottoms. A simple equation is found and is compared with existing theories. As an application, the theory is extended to the case of water…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2009-11-07 Z. Ye

We obtain a general solution for the water waves resulting from a general, time-dependent surface pressure distribution, in the presence of a shear current of uniform vorticity beneath the surface, in three dimensions. Linearized governing…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2015-11-10 Yan Li , Simen Å. Ellingsen

The surface gravity wave evolution, imitating tsunamis triggered by the ocean floor's arbitrary temporal motion over a generic seafloor topography, is investigated using the linearised water wave theory of a compressible ocean. The…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2025-09-30 Ravindra Pethiyagoda , Santu Das , Michael H. Meylan

No surface is perfectly planar at all scales. The notion of flatness of a surface therefore depends on the size of the probe used to observe it. As a consequence rough interfaces are abundant in nature. Here the old, but still active field…

Statistical Mechanics · Physics 2007-05-23 Ingve Simonsen

The analytical study of long wave scattering in a canal with a rapidly varying cross-section is presented. It is assumed that waves propagate on a stationary current with a given flow rate. Due to the fixed flow rate, the current speed is…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2017-09-19 Semyon Churilov , Andrei Ermakov , Germain Rousseaux , Yury Stepanyants
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