Related papers: Edge waves along a sloping beach
The physics of swash i.e. a layer of water that washes up on the beach after an incoming wave has broken is complicated and intriguing. It includes perplexed hydrodynamic and sediment transport events. In our paper we address to the…
We propose to construct a temporary wave on the surface of the ocean, as a particular solution of the Saint-Venant equations with a source term involving the friction, whose shape is expected to mimic a rogue wave.
Dissipative dynamical systems characterised by two basins of attraction are found in many physical systems, notably in hydrodynamics where laminar and turbulent regimes can coexist. The state space of such systems is structured around a…
The standing wave solution on an idealized mass spring system can be found using straight forward algebra. The solution is found when this system makes jump rope like rotations around an axis.The standing wave forms a constant shape in a…
In the last fifteen years, a great progress has been made in the understanding of the nonlinear resonance dynamics of water waves. Notions of scale- and angle-resonances have been introduced, new type of energy cascade due to nonlinear…
Coastal erosion describes the displacement of land caused by destructive sea waves, currents or tides. Major efforts have been made to mitigate these effects using groynes, breakwaters and various other structures. We address this problem…
The flow properties at the leading edge of a flat plate represent a singularity to the Blasius laminar boundary layer equations; by applying the Lagrangian approach the leading edge velocity profiles of the laminar boundary layer over a…
Fully non-linear, plane-symmetric exact solutions of the Einstein equations describing the scattering of gravitational and electromagnetic waves have existed for many years. For these closed-form solutions to be found, idealized wave…
In classical continuum physics, a wave is a mechanical disturbance. Whether the disturbance is stationary or traveling and whether it is caused by the motion of atoms and molecules or the vibration of a lattice structure, a wave can be…
We consider propagating, spatially localised waves in a class of equations that contain variational and non-variational terms. The dynamics of the waves is analysed through a collective coordinate approach. Motivated by the variational…
Using the short-wavelength instability method, we investigate the linear instability of an exact solution describing upward-propagating mountain waves, derived in A. Constantin, \emph{J. Phys. A: Math. Theor.} (2023), under the assumption…
Two-dimensional periodic surface waves propagating under the combined influence of gravity and surface tension on water of finite depth are considered. Within the framework of small-amplitude waves, we find the exact solutions of the…
The scattering of electromagnetic waves by an obstacle is analyzed through a set of partial differential equations combining the Maxwell's model with the mechanics of fluids. Solitary type EM waves, having compact support, may easily be…
In this essay we give an overview on the problem of rogue or freak wave formation in the ocean. The matter of the phenomenon is a sporadic occurrence of unexpectedly high waves on the sea surface. These waves cause serious danger for…
We consider a layer of an inviscid fluid with free surface which is subject to vertical high-frequency vibrations. We derive three asymptotic systems of equations that describe slowly evolving (in comparison with the vibration frequency)…
The paper presents the study of waves in a structured geometrically chiral solid. A special attention is given to the analysis of the Bloch-Floquet waves in a doubly periodic high-contrast lattice containing tilted resonators. Dirac-like…
It is demonstrated that a standard coupled-mode theory can successfully describe weakly-nonlinear gravity water waves in Bragg resonance with a periodic one-dimensional topography. Analytical solutions for gap solitons provided by this…
We introduce a novel type of surface waves that form at the edge of guiding structures consisting of several concentric rings. Such surface waves rotate steadily upon propagation and, in contrast to nonrotating waves, for high rotation…
This is a study of two-dimensional steady periodic travelling waves on the surface of an infinitely deep irrotational ocean, when the top streamline is in contact with a membrane which has a nonlinear response to stretching and bending, and…
We derive the exact gravitational wave solutions in a general class of quadratic Poincar\'e gauge gravity models. The Lagrangian includes all possible linear and quadratic invariants constructed from the torsion and the curvature, including…