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Related papers: Edge waves along a sloping beach

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Long waves in shallow water propagating over a background shear flow towards a sloping beach are being investigated. The classical shallow-water equations are extended to incorporate both a background shear flow and a linear beach profile,…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2017-08-02 Maria Bjørnestad , Henrik Kalisch

Propagation of elastic waves in damaged media (concrete, rocks) is studied theoretically and numerically. Such materials exhibit a nonlinear behavior, with long-time softening and recovery processes (slow dynamics). A constitutive model…

Classical Physics · Physics 2021-04-26 Harold Berjamin , Bruno Lombard , Guillaume Chiavassa , Nicolas Favrie

The nonlinear dynamics of an obliquely oriented wave packet at sea surface is studied both analytically and numerically for various initial parameters of the packet, in connection with the problem of oceanic rogue waves. In the framework of…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2015-04-10 V. P. Ruban

This paper describes a method for deriving approximate equations for irrotational water waves. The method is based on a 'relaxed' variational principle, i.e., on a Lagrangian involving as many variables as possible. This formulation is…

Classical Physics · Physics 2020-02-20 Didier Clamond , Denys Dutykh

We consider the coupled electromagnetic waves propagating in a waveguide array, which consists of alternating waveguides of positive and negative refraction indexes. Due to zigzag configuration there are interactions between both nearest…

Optics · Physics 2013-05-01 Elena V. Kazantseva , Andrey I. Maimistov

Two-dimensional free-surface potential flows of an ideal fluid over a strongly inhomogeneous bottom are investigated with the help of conformal mappings. Weakly-nonlinear and exact nonlinear equations of motion are derived by the…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2016-09-08 V. P. Ruban

In this paper we construct a new solution which represents Pollard-like three-dimensional nonlinear geophysical internal water waves. The Pollard-like solution includes the effects of the rotation of Earth and describes the internal water…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2018-12-04 Mateusz Kluczek

It is the aim of the paper to present a new point of view on rotational elasticity in a nonlinear setting using orthogonal matrices. The proposed model, in the linear approximation, can be compared to the well known equilibrium equations of…

Mathematical Physics · Physics 2015-10-09 Christian G. Boehmer , Nicola Tamanini

The description of gravity waves propagating on the water surface is considered from a historical point of view, with specific emphasis on the development of a theoretical framework and equations of motion for long waves in shallow water.…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2022-03-30 Tomas Torsvik , Ahmed Abdalazeez , Denys Dutykh , Petr Denissenko , Ira Didenkulova

The runup of tsunami waves on the coasts of the barrow bays, channels and straits is studied in the framework of the nonlinear shallow water theory. Using the narrowness of the water channel, the one-dimensional equations are applied; they…

Exactly Solvable and Integrable Systems · Physics 2016-09-08 Narcisse Zahibo , Efim Pelinovsky , Vladimir Golinko , Nataly Osipenko

We derive the exact gravitational wave solutions in a general class of quadratic metric-affine gauge gravity models. The Lagrangian includes all possible linear and quadratic invariants constructed from the torsion, nonmetricity and the…

General Relativity and Quantum Cosmology · Physics 2021-01-14 Alejandro Jiménez-Cano , Yuri N. Obukhov

We investigate exact nonlinear waves on surfaces locally approximating the rotating sphere for two-dimensional inviscid incompressible flow. Our first system corresponds to a beta-plane approximation at the equator and the second to a gamma…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2024-11-20 Nick Pizzo , Rick Salmon

A new theory of edge waves over a slowly varying depth.

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2009-11-10 R. S. Johnson

The computation of long wave propagation through the ocean obviously depends on the initial condition. When the waves are generated by a moving bottom, a traditional approach consists in translating the ``frozen'' sea bed deformation to the…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2020-02-20 Denys Dutykh , Frédéric Dias , Youen Kervella

Recent results of numerical simulations of fully nonlinear evolutionary equations for long-crested deep-water waves are discussed, where formation of extreme waves was observed. Several examples demonstrate that three-dimensionality of the…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2011-08-19 V. P. Ruban

We study the beach problem for water waves. The case we consider is a compact fluid domain, where the free surface intersect the bottom along an edge, with a non-zero contact angle. Using elliptic estimates in domain with edges and a new…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2016-12-14 Thibault de Poyferré

This work comes as the second part in a series of investigations into the dynamics of rotating waves as solutions to lattice dynamical systems. Such nonlinear waves as solutions to mathematical equations are of great interest throughout the…

Dynamical Systems · Mathematics 2019-09-30 Jason J. Bramburger

In this chapter, we illustrate the advantage of variational principles for modeling water waves from an elementary practical viewpoint. The method is based on a `relaxed' variational principle, i.e., on a Lagrangian involving as many…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2019-12-16 Didier Clamond , Denys Dutykh

Adjoint-based shape optimization most often relies on Eulerian flow field formulations. However, since Lagrangian particle methods are the natural choice for solving sedimentation problems in oceanography, extensions to the Lagrangian…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2022-09-07 Luka Schlegel , Volker Schulz

Numerical simulations of the recently derived fully nonlinear equations of motion for weakly three-dimensional water waves [V.P. Ruban, Phys. Rev. E {\bf 71}, 055303(R) (2005)] with quasi-random initial conditions are reported, which show…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2009-11-11 Victor P. Ruban
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