Related papers: Steepness and spectrum of nonlinear deformed shall…
Process of the nonlinear deformation of the surface wave in shallow water is studied. Main attention is paid to the relation between the Fourier-spectrum and wave steepness. It is shown that the spectral harmonics of the initially sine wave…
Wave shoaling of water waves over mild bottom slopes is well described by linearized theories. However, the analytical treatment of nonlinear wave shoaling subject to rapidly varying bottoms has proven to be elusive in the past decades. As…
Wave steepness is a key geometric variable for describing breaking occurrence and its consequences, including energy dissipation and air entrainment. Using three laboratory campaigns under varying spectral conditions and co-flowing wind…
Deep-water surface wave breaking affects the transfer of mass, momentum, energy and heat between the air and sea. Understanding when and how the onset of wave breaking will occur remains a challenge. The mechanisms that form steep waves,…
In this work, we study the nonlinear traveling waves in density stratified fluids with depth varying shear currents. Beginning the formulation of the water-wave problem due to [1], we extend the work of [4] and [18] to examine the interface…
This paper presents a new numerical model based on the highly nonlinear potential flow theory for simulating the propagation of water waves in variable depth. A new set of equations for estimating the surface vertical velocity is derived…
Nonlinear wave interactions affect the evolution of steep wave groups, their breaking and the associated kinematic field. Laboratory experiments are performed to investigate the effect of the underlying focussing mechanism on the shape of…
By numerical simulation of exact equations of motion (in terms of conformal variables) for planar non-stationary potential flows of an ideal fluid with a free surface over a strongly non-uniform bottom profile, the effect of nonlinear…
It is shown that spatially periodic one-dimensional surface waves in shallow water behave almost linearly, provided large part of the energy is contained in sufficiently high frequencies. The amplitude is not required to be small (apart…
The spatio-temporal dynamics of the deformation of a vibrated plate is measured by a high speed Fourier transform profilometry technique. The space-time Fourier spectrum is analyzed. It displays a behavior consistent with the premises of…
We consider the modulational instability of nonlinearly interacting two-dimensional waves in deep water, which are described by a pair of two-dimensional coupled nonlinear Schroedinger equations. We derive a nonlinear dispersion relation.…
Shallow water waves are a striking example of nonlinear hydrodynamics, giving rise to phenomena such as tsunamis and undular waves. These dynamics are typically studied in hundreds-of-meter-long wave flumes. Here, we demonstrate a…
The instability and nonlinear evolution of directional ocean waves is investigated numerically by means of simulations of the governing kinetic equation for narrow-band surface waves. Our simulation results reveal the onset of the…
Interpretation of random wave field on a shallow water in terms of Fourier spectra is not adequate, when wave amplitudes are not infinitesimally small. A nonlinearity of wave fields leads to the harmonic interactions and random variation of…
This is a study of two-dimensional steady periodic travelling waves on the surface of an infinitely deep irrotational ocean, when the top streamline is in contact with a membrane which has a nonlinear response to stretching and bending, and…
Wave turbulence in a thin elastic plate is experimentally investigated. By using a Fourier transform profilometry technique, the deformation field of the plate surface is measured simultaneously in time and space. This enables us to compute…
A spectrogram is a useful way of using short-time discrete Fourier transforms to visualise surface height measurements taken of ship wakes in real world conditions. For a steadily moving ship that leaves behind small-amplitude waves, the…
We review recent progress in modeling the probability distribution of wave heights in the deep ocean as a function of a small number of parameters describing the local sea state. Both linear and nonlinear mechanisms of rogue wave formation…
A weakly nonlinear spectrum and a strongly nonlinear spectrum coexist in a statistically steady state of elastic wave turbulence. The analytical representation of the nonlinear frequency is obtained by evaluating the extended self-nonlinear…
Strongly nonlinear models of internal wave propagation for incompressible stratified Euler fluids are investigated numerically and analytically to determine the evolution of a class of initial conditions of interest in laboratory…