Related papers: Unsteady undular bores in fully nonlinear shallow-…
We derive an asymptotic formula for the amplitude distribution in a fully nonlinear shallow-water solitary wave train which is formed as the long-time outcome of the initial-value problem for the Su-Gardner (or one-dimensional Green-Naghdi)…
The generation of an undular bore in the vicinity of a wave-breaking point is considered for the integrable Kaup-Boussinesq shallow water system. In the framework of the Whitham modulation theory, an analytic solution of the…
We use the integrable Kaup-Boussinesq shallow water system, modified by a small viscous term, to model the formation of an undular bore with a steady profile. The description is made in terms of the corresponding integrable Whitham system,…
We develop modulation theory for undular bores (dispersive shock waves) in the framework of the Gardner, or extended Korteweg--de Vries, equation, which is a generic mathematical model for weakly nonlinear and weakly dispersive wave…
Two-dimensional nonlinear gravity waves travelling in shallow water on a vertically sheared current of constant vorticity are considered. Using Euler equations, in the shallow water approximation, hyperbolic equations for the surface…
In this paper, we derive asymptotic models for the propagation of two and three-dimensional gravity waves at the free surface and the interface between two layers of immiscible fluids of different densities, over an uneven bottom. We assume…
We review here the derivation of many of the most important models that appear in the literature (mainly in coastal oceanography) for the description of waves in shallow water. We show that these models can be obtained using various…
This paper considers the propagation of shallow-water solitary and nonlinear periodic waves over a gradual slope with bottom friction in the framework of a variable-coefficient Korteweg-de Vries equation. We use the Whitham averaging…
The theory of integrable systems of Hamiltonian PDEs and their near-integrable deformations is used to study evolution equations resulting from vertical-averages of the Euler system for two-layer stratified flows in an infinite 2D channel.…
The Serre-Green-Naghdi system is a coupled, fully nonlinear system of dispersive evolution equations which approximates the full water wave problem. The system is an extension of the well known shallow-water system to the situation where…
A generalized version of the $abcd$-Boussinesq class of systems is derived to accommodate variable bottom topography in two-dimensional space. This extension allows for the conservation of suitable energy functionals in some cases and…
We are interested in asymptotic models for the propagation of internal waves at the interface between two shallow layers of immiscible fluid, under the rigid-lid assumption. We review and complete existing works in the literature, in order…
We investigate the long-time properties of the two-dimensional inviscid Boussinesq equations near a stably stratified Couette flow, for an initial Gevrey perturbation of size $\varepsilon$. Under the classical Miles-Howard stability…
The travelling wave problem for a particular bidirectional Whitham system modelling surface water waves is under consideration. This system firstly appeared in [Dinvay, Dutykh, Kalisch 2018], where it was numerically shown to be stable and…
We derive and analyze in the framework of the mild-slope approximation a new double-layer Boussinesq-type model which is linearly and nonlinearly accurate up to deep water. Assuming the flow to be irrotational, we formulate the problem in…
In this paper, we consider the Boussinesq equations with magnetohydrodynamics convection in the domain $\mathbb{T} \times \mathbb{R}$ and establishes the nonlinear stability of the Couette flow $(\mathbf{u}_{sh} = (y,0), \mathbf{b}_{sh} =…
We modify the nonlinear shallow water equations, the Korteweg-de Vries equation, and the Whitham equation, to permit constant vorticity, and examine wave breaking, or the lack thereof. By wave breaking, we mean that the solution remains…
We study here Green-Naghdi type equations (also called fully nonlinear Boussinesq, or Serre equations) modeling the propagation of large amplitude waves in shallow water. The novelty here is that we allow for a general vorticity, hereby…
In this paper, we present an original derivation process of a non-hydrostatic shallow water-type model which aims at approximating the incompressible Euler and Navier-Stokes systems with free surface. The closure relations are obtained by…
In this article we consider the multi-layer shallow water system for the propagation of gravity waves in density-stratified flows, with additional terms introduced by the oceanographers Gent and McWilliams in order to take into account…