Related papers: Evolution of unidirectional random waves in shallo…
We study the nonlinear interactions of waves with a doubled-peaked power spectrum in shallow water. The starting point is the prototypical equation for nonlinear uni-directional waves in shallow water, i.e. the Korteweg de Vries equation.…
This paper considers the propagation of shallow-water solitary and nonlinear periodic waves over a gradual slope with bottom friction in the framework of a variable-coefficient Korteweg-de Vries equation. We use the Whitham averaging…
Interpretation of random wave field on a shallow water in terms of Fourier spectra is not adequate, when wave amplitudes are not infinitesimally small. A nonlinearity of wave fields leads to the harmonic interactions and random variation of…
A problem in nonlinear water-wave propagation on the surface of an inviscid, stationary fluid is presented. The primary surface wave, suitably initiated at some radius, is taken to be a slowly evolving nonlinear cylindrical wave (governed…
Two-dimensional nonlinear gravity waves travelling in shallow water on a vertically sheared current of constant vorticity are considered. Using Euler equations, in the shallow water approximation, hyperbolic equations for the surface…
Nonlinear instability and refraction by ocean currents are both important mechanisms that go beyond the Rayleigh approximation and may be responsible for the formation of freak waves. In this paper, we quantitatively study nonlinear effects…
In this paper we study the effect of rotation on nonlinear wave phenomena in weakly dispersive media modeled by the Korteweg-de Vries equation on the real line. It is well known that smoothing in the case of the KdV equation with periodic…
Surface waves in a heated viscous fluid exhibit a long wave oscillatory instability. The nonlinear evolution of unidirectional waves is known to be described by a modified Korteweg-deVries-Kuramoto-Sivashinsky equation. In the present work…
It is shown that spatially periodic one-dimensional surface waves in shallow water behave almost linearly, provided large part of the energy is contained in sufficiently high frequencies. The amplitude is not required to be small (apart…
Effects of nonlinear dynamics of solitary waves and wave modulations within the modular (also known as quadratically cubic) Korteweg - de Vries equation are studied analytically and numerically. Large wave events can occur in the course of…
The evolution of surface gravity waves is driven by nonlinear interactions that trigger an energy cascade similarly to the one observed in hydrodynamic turbulence. This process, known as wave turbulence, has been found to display anomalous…
The nonlinear dynamics of a warped accretion disc is investigated in the important case of a thin Keplerian disc with negligible viscosity and self-gravity. A one-dimensional evolutionary equation is formally derived that describes the…
Laboratory experiments reveal that variations in bottom topography can qualitatively alter the distribution of randomized surface waves. A normally-distributed, unidirectional wave field becomes highly skewed and non-Gaussian upon…
The study of hyperbolic waves involves various notions which help characterise how these structures evolve. One important facet is the notion of \emph{genuine nonlinearity}, namely the ability for shocks and rarefactions to form instead of…
We examine the general question of statistical changes experienced by ensembles of nonlinear random waves propagating in systems ruled by integrable equations. In our study that enters within the framework of integrable turbulence, we…
The evolution of random wave fields on the free surface is a complex process which is not completely understood nowadays. For the sake of simplicity in this study we will restrict our attention to the 2D physical problems only (i.e. 1D wave…
The instability and nonlinear evolution of directional ocean waves is investigated numerically by means of simulations of the governing kinetic equation for narrow-band surface waves. Our simulation results reveal the onset of the…
We modify the nonlinear shallow water equations, the Korteweg-de Vries equation, and the Whitham equation, to permit constant vorticity, and examine wave breaking, or the lack thereof. By wave breaking, we mean that the solution remains…
We study the evolution of nonlinear surface gravity water-wave packets developing from modulational instability over an uneven bottom. A nonlinear Schr\"odinger equation (NLSE) with coefficients varying in space along propagation is used as…
We present a numerical study of essentially nonlinear dynamics of surface gravity waves on deep water with constant vorticity using governing equations in conformal coordinates. The dispersion relation of surface gravity waves on shear flow…