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Wind speed at sea surface is a key quantity for a variety of scientific applications and human activities. Due to the non-linearity of the phenomenon, a complete description of such variable is made infeasible on both the small scale and…

Machine Learning · Computer Science 2024-10-28 Matteo Zambra , Nicolas Farrugia , Dorian Cazau , Alexandre Gensse , Ronan Fablet

Satellite Synthetic Aperture Radar (SAR) observations can provide a global view of ocean swell fields when using a specific "wave mode" sampling. A methodology is presented to routinely derive integral properties of the longer wavelength…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2009-02-23 Fabrice Collard , Fabrice Ardhuin , Bertrand Chapron

Two-dimensional Particle Tracking Velocimetry (PTV) is a promising technique to study the behaviour of granular flows. The aim is to experimentally determine the free surface width and position of the shear band from the velocity profile to…

We describe and exploit a reformulation, based on a recently-introduced change of variables, of the double integral that describes the second-order ocean Doppler spectrum measured by High-Frequency radars. We show that this alternative…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2025-03-31 Charles-Antoine Guérin

Special features of surface gravity waves in deep fluid flow with constant vertical shear of velocity is studied. It is found that the mean flow velocity shear leads to non-trivial modification of surface gravity wave modes dispersive…

Astrophysics · Physics 2016-08-30 G. Gogoberidze , L. Samushia , G. D. Chagelishvili , J. G. Lominadze , W. Horton

This paper presents a new numerical model based on the highly nonlinear potential flow theory for simulating the propagation of water waves in variable depth. A new set of equations for estimating the surface vertical velocity is derived…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2024-12-02 Jinghua Wang

We introduce a velocimetry technique based on the Doppler-shift of surface waves propagating between an emitter and a receiver. In the limit of scale separation between the wavelength and the scale of the flow, we derive the direct…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2017-10-09 T. Humbert , S. Aumaître , B. Gallet

Near-surface atmospheric conditions can differ sharply over tens to hundreds of meters due to land cover and topography, yet this variability is absent from current weather analyses and forecasts. It is unclear whether such meter-scale…

Knowing the sea surface velocity field is essential for various applications, such as search and rescue operations and oil spill monitoring, where understanding the movement of objects or substances is critical. However, obtaining an…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2025-08-01 Karlo Jakac , Luka Lanča , Ante Sikirica , Stefan Ivić

Remote sensing of oceanographic data often yields incomplete coverage of the measurement domain. This can limit interpretability of the data and identification of coherent features informative of ocean dynamics. Several methods exist to…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2019-03-27 Siavash Ameli , Shawn C. Shadden

Traditional free vibration-based forward models generate theoretical dispersion curves under the assumption of planar waves, neglecting the influence of the actual source-receiver configuration. While 2D/3D numerical wavefield modeling…

Geophysics · Physics 2024-02-02 Mrinal Bhaumik , Tarun Naskar

The interaction of surface waves with Couette-type current with uniform vorticity is a well suited problem for students approaching the theory of surface waves. The problem, although mathematically simple, contains rich physics, and is…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2014-02-26 Simen Å Ellingsen , Iver Brevik

Modeling ocean surface waves under complex ocean current conditions is of crucial importance to many naval applications. For example, traveling ships and underwater vehicles generate spatially heterogeneous currents behind them through…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2022-02-15 Tianyi Li , Anqing Xuan , Lian Shen

The wave spectral properties in the centimeter to decameter (cmDm) wavelength range is of great interest to ocean remote sensing and studies of ocean surface processes including the surface roughness, air-sea energy and momentum exchanges,…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2019-06-20 Paul A. Hwang

High-frequency wave propagation in near-inertial wave shear has been considered fundamental in setting the spectral character of the oceanic internal wave continuum and for transporting energy to wave-breaking. We compare idealized ray…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2023-10-27 Kurt L Polzin , Yuri V Lvov

Faraday waves are capillary ripples that form on the surface of a fluid being subject to vertical shaking. Although it is well known that the form and shape of the waves pattern depend on driving amplitude and frequency, only recent studies…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2020-08-19 Raffaele Colombi , Michael Schlüter , Alexandra von Kameke

The paper develops a method for recovering a one-dimensional rough surface profile from scattered wave field, using a single receiver and repeated measurements when the surface is moving with respect to source and receiver. This extends a…

Computational Physics · Physics 2023-12-26 Yuxuan Chen , Mark Spivack , Orsola Rath Spivack

This work aims at generating a model of the ocean surface and its dynamics from one or more video cameras. The idea is to model wave patterns from video as a first step towards a larger system of photogrammetric monitoring of marine…

Computer Vision and Pattern Recognition · Computer Science 2013-10-01 Mauro de Amorim , Ricardo Fabbri , Lucia Maria dos Santos Pinto , Francisco Duarte Moura Neto

We investigate experimentally the early stage of the generation of waves by a turbulent wind at the surface of a viscous liquid. The spatio-temporal structure of the surface deformation is analyzed by the optical method Free Surface…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2020-12-09 Anna Paquier , Frederic Moisy , Marc Rabaud

Remotely measuring subsurface water currents from imagery of the wave field has become a much-used technique. We study the biases and errors in such measurements due to spectral leakage, and suggest mitigating procedures. Deviations between…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2023-11-03 Stefan Weichert , Benjamin K. Smeltzer , Simen Å. Ellingsen