English
Related papers

Related papers: Beyond Stokes drift -- Lagrangian transport in evo…

200 papers

The goal of this work is to investigate particle motions beneath unidirectional, deep-water waves up to the third-order in nonlinearity. A particular focus is on the approximation known as Stokes drift, and how it relates to the particle…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2026-04-22 Raphael Stuhlmeier

We investigate the weakly nonlinear dynamics of transient gravity waves at infinite depth under the influence of a shear current varying linearly with depth. An analytical solution is permitted via integration of the Euler equations.…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2019-02-20 A. H. Akselsen , Simen Å. Ellingsen

A nonlinear stability analysis entirely in the Lagrangian frame is conducted, revealing the fundamental role of the wave-induced mean flow in modifying further wave growth and providing new insight into the classic problem of wave…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2025-08-05 L. R. Seitz , Mara A. Freilich , Nick Pizzo

In this paper we consider the transport--Stokes system, which describes the sedimentation of particles in a viscous fluid in inertialess regime. We show existence of Lagrangian solutions to the Cauchy problem with $L^1$ initial data. We…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2023-03-13 Marco Inversi

We derive transport equations for the propagation of water wave action in the presence of a static, spatially random surface drift. Using the Wigner distribution $\W(\x,\k,t)$ to represent the envelope of the wave amplitude at position $\x$…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2007-05-23 Guillaume Bal , Tom Chou

The well-known Stokes waves refer to periodic traveling waves under the gravity at the free surface of a two dimensional full water wave system. In this paper, we prove that small-amplitude Stokes waves with infinite depth are nonlinearly…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2021-01-01 Gong Chen , Qingtang Su

The Stokes wave problem in a constant vorticity flow is formulated, by virtue of conformal mapping techniques, as a nonlinear pseudodifferential equation, involving the periodic Hilbert transform, which becomes the Babenko equation in the…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2019-10-23 Sergey A. Dyachenko , Vera Mikyoung Hur

A Lagrangian relativistic approach to the non--linear dynamics of cosmological perturbations of an irrotational collisionless fluid is considered. Solutions are given at second order in perturbation theory for the relevant fluid and…

Astrophysics · Physics 2015-06-24 S. Matarrese , O. Pantano , D. Saez

Steady linear gravity waves of small amplitude travelling on a current of constant vorticity are found. For negative vorticity we show the appearance of internal waves and vortices, wherein the particle trajectories are not any more closed…

Mathematical Physics · Physics 2007-12-05 Mats Ehrnstrom , Gabriele Villari

We use an acoustic Lagrangian tracking technique, particularly adapted to measurements in open flows, and a versatile material particles generator (in the form of soap bubbles with adjustable size and density) to characterize Lagrangian…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2009-11-13 Nauman M. Qureshi , Mickael Bourgoin , Christophe Baudet , Alain Cartellier , Yves Gagne

Stokes wave is a finite amplitude periodic gravity wave propagating with constant velocity in inviscid fluid. Complex analytical structure of Stokes wave is analyzed using a conformal mapping of a free fluid surface of Stokes wave into the…

Pattern Formation and Solitons · Physics 2016-06-30 Pavel M. Lushnikov

Turbulent flows at the surface of the ocean deviate from geostrophic equilibrium on scales smaller than about 10 km. These scales are associated with important vertical transport of active and passive tracers, and should play a prominent…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2024-10-28 Michael Maalouly , Guillaume Lapeyre , Stefano Berti

A Stokes wave is a traveling free-surface periodic water wave that is constant in the direction transverse to the direction of propagation. In 1981 McLean discovered via numerical methods that Stokes waves are unstable with respect to…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2026-02-20 Ryan P. Creedon , Huy Q. Nguyen , Walter A. Strauss

The Stokes wave problem in a constant vorticity flow is formulated via a conformal mapping as a modified Babenko equation. The associated linearized operator is self-adjoint, whereby efficiently solved by the Newton-conjugate gradient…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2019-04-12 Sergey A. Dyachenko , Vera Mikyoung Hur

It is well known that Lagrangian dynamical systems naturally arise in describing wave front dynamics in the limit of short waves (which is called pseudoclassical limit or limit of geometrical optics). Wave fronts are the surfaces of…

Differential Geometry · Mathematics 2007-05-23 Ruslan Sharipov

We consider viscous two-dimensional steady flows of incompressible fluids past doubly periodic arrays of solid obstacles. In a class of such flows, the autocorrelations for the Lagrangian observables decay in accordance with the power law,…

Statistical Mechanics · Physics 2007-05-23 Michael A. Zaks , Arthur V. Straube

We consider the gravity-capillary water waves equations of a 2D fluid with constant vorticity. By employing variational methods we prove the bifurcation of periodic traveling water waves -- which are steady in a moving frame -- for {\it…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2025-09-12 T. Barbieri , M. Berti , A. Maspero , M. Mazzucchelli

In this paper we investigate the qualitative behaviour of the pressure function beneath an extreme Stokes wave over infinite depth. The presence of a stagnation point at the wave-crest of an extreme Stokes wave introduces a number of…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2016-03-23 Tony Lyons

The transport properties of a random velocity field with Kolmogorov spectrum and time correlations defined along Lagrangian trajectories are analyzed. The analysis is carried on in the limit of short correlation times, as a perturbation…

Chaotic Dynamics · Physics 2009-11-07 Piero Olla

When a vortex refracts surface waves, the momentum flux carried by the waves changes direction and the waves induce a reaction force on the vortex. We study experimentally the resulting vortex distortion. Incoming surface gravity waves…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2017-09-27 T. Humbert , S. Aumaître , B. Gallet