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Related papers: Fold catastrophe in breaking waves

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An axisymmetric collapse of non-rotating gravitational waves is numerically investigated in the subcritical regime where no black holes form but where curvature attains a maximum and decreases, following the dispersion of the initial wave…

General Relativity and Quantum Cosmology · Physics 2011-01-17 Evgeny Sorkin

The present study focuses on direct numerical simulations of breaking waves generated by a wave plate at constant water depths. The aim is to quantify the dynamics and kinematics in the breaking process, together with the air entrainment…

The modeling of wave breaking dissipation in coastal areas is investigated with a fully nonlinear and dispersive wave model. The wave propagation model is based on potential flow theory, which initially assumes non-overturning waves.…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2019-12-05 Bruno Simon , Christos E. Papoutsellis , Michel Benoit , Marissa L. Yates

Breakup of drop/bubble can be viewed as a result of fundamental force balance when the disruptive force is greater than the restorative force. A disruptive force acting on the drop/bubble tries to deform it, whereas a restorative force…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2017-01-24 Suhas Jain S

Using data from a recent field campaign, we evaluate several breaking criteria with the goal of assessing the accuracy of these criteria in wave breaking detection. Two new criteria are also evaluated. An integral parameter is defined in…

We revisit the classical but as yet unresolved problem of predicting the strength of breaking 2-D and 3-D gravity water waves, as quantified by the amount of wave energy dissipated per breaking event. Following Duncan (1983), the wave…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2018-02-13 M. Derakhti , M. L. Banner , J. T. Kirby

Using time-series of stereoscopic particle image velocimetry data, we study the response of a turbulent von K\'{a}rm\'{a}n swirling flow to a continuous breaking of its forcing symmetry. Experiments are carried over a wide Reynolds number…

Statistical Mechanics · Physics 2012-05-22 P. -P. Cortet , E. Herbert , A. Chiffaudel , F. Daviaud , B. Dubrulle , V. Padilla

When fast cracks become unstable to microscopic branching (micro-branching), fracture no longer occurs in an effective 2D medium. We follow in-plane crack front dynamics via real-time measurements in brittle gels as micro-branching unfolds…

Materials Science · Physics 2015-05-19 Itamar Kolvin , Gil Cohen , Jay Fineberg

We consider the growth of a vicinal crystal surface in the presence of a step-edge barrier. For any value of the barrier strength, measured by the length l_es, nucleation of islands on terraces is always able to destroy asymptotically…

Statistical Mechanics · Physics 2007-05-23 Daniele Vilone , Claudio Castellano , Paolo Politi

Sufficient conditions for wave breaking are found for the short-pulse equation describing wave packets of few cycles on the ultra-short pulse scale. The analysis relies on the method of characteristics and conserved quantities of the…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2010-01-08 Yue Liu , Dmitry Pelinovsky , Anton Sakovich

This paper presents a novel method for obtaining the probability wave of breaking ($P_b$) of deep water, dominant wind-sea waves (that is, waves made of the energy within $\pm$30\% of the peak wave frequency) derived from Gaussian wave…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2021-01-29 Caio Eadi Stringari , Marc Prevosto , Jean François Filipot , Fabien Leckler , Pedro Veras Guimarães

Hydrodynamics provides a universal description of interacting quantum field theories at sufficiently long times and wavelengths, but breaks down at scales dependent on microscopic details of the theory. In the vicinity of a quantum critical…

High Energy Physics - Theory · Physics 2021-08-11 Daniel Arean , Richard A. Davison , Blaise Goutéraux , Kenta Suzuki

We investigate the energy growth and dissipation of wind-forced breaking waves at high wind speed using direct numerical simulations of the coupled air-water Navier-Stokes equations. A turbulent wind boundary layer drives the growth of a…

A new mechanism of the collapse in hydrodynamics is suggested, due to breaking of continuously distributed vortex lines. Collapse results in formation of the point singularities of the vorticity field $|{\bf\Omega}|$. At the collapse point,…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2007-05-23 E. A. Kuznetsov , V. P. Ruban

Wave breaking is a critical process in the upper ocean: an energy sink for the surface wave field and a source for turbulence in the ocean surface boundary layer. We apply a novel multi-layer numerical solver resolving upper-ocean dynamics…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2025-10-13 Jiarong Wu , Stéphane Popinet , Bertrand Chapron , J. Thomas Farrar , Luc Deike

In this paper we study wave breaking in the unidirectional non-local wave model describing the motion of a collision-free plasma in a magnetic field. By analyzing the monotonicity and continuity properties of a system of the Riccati-type…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2023-06-14 Shaojie Yang , Jian Chen

The coupling between wind-waves and atmospheric surface layer turbulence sets surface drag. This coupling is however usually represented through a roughness length. Originally suggested on purely dimensional grounds, this roughness length…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2021-03-12 Alex Ayet , Bertrand Chapron , Peter Sutherland , Gabriel G. Katul

The aim of the present work is to develop a model able to represent the propagation and transformation of waves in nearshore areas. The focus is on the phenomena of wave breaking, shoaling and run-up. These different phenomena are…

Numerical Analysis · Mathematics 2023-01-16 Paola Bacigaluppi , Mario Ricchiuto , Philippe Bonneton

Wave catastrophes are characterized by logarithmic phase singularities. Examples are light at the horizon of a black hole, sound in transsonic fluids, waves in accelerated frames, light in singular dielectrics and slow light close to a zero…

Optics · Physics 2009-11-10 Tamas Kiss , Ulf Leonhardt

The impact forces generated by the impact of a breaking wave are poorly understood. These impulsive hydrodynamic loads to a ship's hull are of short duration relative to ship motions and buoyant wave loads and often result in extremely high…