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Related papers: Down-scale marine hydrodynamic analysis at the Nor…

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Knowledge about statistics for water level variations along the coast due to storm surge is important for the utilization of the coastal zone. An open and freely available storm surge hindcast archive covering the coast of Norway and…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2024-07-30 Nils Melsom Kristensen , Paulina Tedesco , Jean Rabault , Ole Johan Aarnes , Øyvind Saetra , Øyvind Breivik

A high-resolution nested WAM/SWAN wave model suite aimed at rapidly establishing nearshore wave forecasts as well as a climatology and return values of the local wave conditions with Rapid Enviromental Assessment (REA) in mind is described.…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2012-06-15 Øyvind Breivik , Yvonne Gusdal , Birgitte R. Furevik , Ole Johan Aarnes , Magnar Reistad

We present Flo, a data-driven storm surge model, covering the North Sea, Norwegian Sea and Barents Sea. The model is built using the Anemoi framework for creating machine learning weather forecasting systems, developed by the European…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2026-03-13 Nils Melsom Kristensen , Mateusz Matuszak , Paulina Tedesco , Ina Kristine Berentsen Kullmann , Johannes Röhrs

A combined high-resolution atmospheric downscaling and wave hindcast based on the ERA-40 reanalysis covering the Norwegian Sea, the North Sea and the Barents Sea is presented. The period covered is from September 1957 to August 2002. The…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2011-11-04 Magnar Reistad , Øyvind Breivik , Hilde Haakenstad , Ole Johan Aarnes , Birgitte R. Furevik , Jean-Raymond Bidlot

Accurate information on waves and storm surges is essential to understand coastal hazards that are expected to increase in view of global warming and rising sea levels. Despite the recent advancement in development and application of…

The performances of phase-averaged parametric nearshore wave transformation models depend significantly on a reliable estimate of the wave breaker index r (the breaker height-to-depth ratio), a free model parameter that essentially controls…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2021-06-10 Chi Zhang , Yuan Li , Yu Cai , Jian Shi , Jinhai Zheng , Feng Cai , Hongshuai Qi

Information about the hydro-meteorological parameters during the extreme sea storms is of significant importance for the sustainable development in the context of flood risk for the coastal areas. Usually there is a lack of sufficiently…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2015-09-30 Vasko Galabov , Anna Kortcheva , Andrey Bogatchev , Boryana Tsenova

Predictions of the wave-induced response of floating structures that are moored in a harbour or coastal waters require an accurate description of the (nonlinear) evolution of waves over variable bottom topography, the interactions of the…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2022-08-19 Dirk Pieter Rijnsdorp , Hugh Wolgamot , Marcel Zijlema

Statistically simulated time series of wave parameters are required for many coastal and offshore engineering applications, often at the resolution of approximately one hour. Various studies have relied on autoregressive moving-average…

Applications · Statistics 2018-10-31 Wiebke S. Jäger , Thomas Nagler , Claudia Czado , Robert T. McCall

Predicting the temporal and spatial dynamics of seafloor roughness is important for understanding bottom boundary layer hydrodynamics. The Navy Seafloor Evolution Architecture (NSEA) is a platform for modeling the dynamic nature of the…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2022-11-17 William S. Kearney , Allison M. Penko

In offshore engineering design, nonlinear wave models are often used to propagate stochastic waves from an input boundary to the location of an offshore structure. Each wave realization is typically characterized by a high-dimensional input…

Data Analysis, Statistics and Probability · Physics 2020-04-24 Kenan Šehić , Henrik Bredmose , John D. Sørensen , Mirza Karamehmedović

We present a new solution to the nonlinear shallow water equations and show that it accurately predicts the swash flow due to obliquely approaching bores in large-scale wave basin experiments. The solution is based on an application of…

Predicting ocean wave behavior is challenging due to the difficulty in choosing suitable numerical models among many with varying capabilities. This review examines the development and performance of numerical wave models in coastal…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2025-12-01 Md Meftahul Ferdaus , Nathan Alton Cooper , Austin B. Schmidt , Pujan Pokhrel , Elias Ioup , Mahdi Abdelguerfi , Julian Simeonov

Air-sea interface fluxes significantly impact the reliability and efficiency of maritime communication. Compared to sparse in-situ ocean observations, satellite remote sensing data offers broader coverage and extended temporal span. This…

Signal Processing · Electrical Eng. & Systems 2025-02-20 Hanyue Ni , Jingsong Yang , Lin Ren , Xiaohui Li , Changming Dong , Wen Chen

The runup of tsunami waves on the coasts of the barrow bays, channels and straits is studied in the framework of the nonlinear shallow water theory. Using the narrowness of the water channel, the one-dimensional equations are applied; they…

Exactly Solvable and Integrable Systems · Physics 2016-09-08 Narcisse Zahibo , Efim Pelinovsky , Vladimir Golinko , Nataly Osipenko

We present an end-to-end deep learning framework for short-term forecasting of global sea surface dynamics based on sparse satellite altimetry data. Building on two state-of-the-art architectures: U-Net and 4DVarNet, originally developed…

Long waves in shallow water propagating over a background shear flow towards a sloping beach are being investigated. The classical shallow-water equations are extended to incorporate both a background shear flow and a linear beach profile,…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2017-08-02 Maria Bjørnestad , Henrik Kalisch

Whenever oceanic currents flow over rough topography, there is an associated stress that acts to modify the flow. In the deep ocean, this stress is predominantly a form drag due to pressure differentials across topography, caused by the…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2026-02-13 Daniel R. Johnston , Callum J. Shakespeare , Navid C. Constantinou

This report describes six demonstration cases of two numerical ocean wave models in high latitude regions where waves interact with sea ice. The two wave models are SWAN (Simulating WAves Nearshore) and WW3 (WAVEWATCH III), run in uncoupled…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2025-08-26 W. E. Rogers , T. J. Campbell , J. Yu , R. A. Allard

We review here the derivation of many of the most important models that appear in the literature (mainly in coastal oceanography) for the description of waves in shallow water. We show that these models can be obtained using various…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2020-04-22 David Lannes
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