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A hydrodynamic formulation of the evolution of large-scale structure in the Universe is presented. It relies on the spatially coarse-grained description of the dynamical evolution of a many-body gravitating system. Because of the assumed…

Astrophysics · Physics 2009-10-31 Alvaro Dominguez

Some data of the drift current, Ud, measured on a wavy surface of water in a laboratory and the field, are briefly described. Empirical formulas for Ud are given, and their incompleteness is noted, regarding to absence of the drift current…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2019-06-26 Vladislav G. Polnikov

We review here the derivation of many of the most important models that appear in the literature (mainly in coastal oceanography) for the description of waves in shallow water. We show that these models can be obtained using various…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2020-04-22 David Lannes

We present the derivation of generic equations describing the long gravity waves in incompressible fluid with decaying effect. We show that in this theory the only restriction to the surface deviation is connected with the stability…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2024-11-26 Vladimir I. Kruglov

The equations of continuum hydrodynamics can be derived from the Boltzmann equation, which describes rarefied gas dynamics at the kinetic level, by means of the Chapman-Enskog expansion. This expansion assumes a small Knudsen number, and as…

Statistical Mechanics · Physics 2011-10-07 Carlos Escudero

Hydrodynamics and quantum mechanics have many elements in common, as the density field and velocity fields are common variables that can be constructed in both descriptions. Starting with the Schroedinger equation and the Klein-Gordon for a…

Nuclear Theory · Physics 2014-06-18 Cheuk-Yin Wong

Full Waveform Inversion (FWI) is a highly nonlinear and ill-posed problem that aims to recover subsurface velocity maps from surface-recorded seismic waveforms data. Existing data-driven FWI typically uses small models, as available…

Machine Learning · Computer Science 2026-05-29 Yinan Feng , Peng Jin , Yuzhe Guo , Yinpeng Chen , Youzuo Lin

We consider the problem of reconstructing the seabed topography from observations of surface gravity waves. We formulate the problem as a classical inverse scattering problem using the mild-slope equation, and analyze the topographic…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2026-03-30 Adrian Kirkeby

From a scale analysis of hydrodynamic phenomena having a significant action on the drift of an object in coastal ocean waters, we deduce equations modeling the associated hydrodynamic fields over a time period of several weeks. These models…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2008-01-08 Pierre Ailliot , Emmanuel Frenod , Valerie Monbet

Because wind-generated waves can propagate over large distances, wave spectra from a fixed point can record information about air-sea interactions in distant areas. In this study, the spectral wave climate is computed for a specific…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2019-02-14 Haoyu Jiang , Lin Mu

The Whitham approach is a well-studied method to describe non-linear integrable systems. Although approximate in nature, its results may predict rather accurately the time evolution of such systems in many situations given initial…

Statistical Mechanics · Physics 2020-06-24 Eldad Bettelheim

We examine a two dimensional fluid system consisting of a lower medium bounded underneath by a flatbed and an upper medium with a free surface. The two media are separated by a free common interface. The gravity driven surface and internal…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2017-02-07 Rossen Ivanov

Elastic wave speeds are fundamental in geomechanics and have historically been described by an analytic formula that assumes linearly elastic solid medium. Empirical relations stemming from this assumption were used to determine nonlinearly…

Classical Physics · Physics 2023-12-05 David M. Riley , Itai Einav , François Guillard

We consider the motion of a two-dimensional interface between air (above) and an irrotational, incompressible, inviscid, infinitely deep water (below), with surface tension present. We propose a new way to reduce the original problem into…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2017-12-04 Shuanglin Shao , Hsi-Wei Shih

With an increasing emphasis on renewable energy resources, wave power technology is fast becoming a realistic solution. However, the recent tsunami in Japan was a harsh reminder of the ferocity of the ocean. It is known that tsunamis are…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2020-02-20 Laura O'Brien , Paul Christodoulides , Emiliano Renzi , Denys Dutykh , Frédéric Dias

An experimental validation of theoretical models of transmission of regular water waves by large arrays of floating disks is presented. The experiments are conducted in a wave basin. The models are based on combined potential-flow and…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2014-03-18 Luke Bennetts , Timothy Williams

This paper provides a theoretical foundation for some common formulations of inverse problems in wave propagation, based on hyperbolic systems of linear integro-differential equations with bounded and measurable coefficients. The…

Mathematical Physics · Physics 2015-06-12 Kirk D. Blazek , Christiaan C. Stolk , William W. Symes

Consider a two-dimensional stratified solitary wave propagating through a body of water that is bounded below by an impermeable ocean bed. In this work, we study how such a wave can be reconstructed from data consisting of the wave speed,…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2015-03-02 Robin Ming Chen , Samuel Walsh

Simple models are used throughout the physical sciences as a means of developing intuition, capturing phenomenology, and qualitatively reproducing observations. In studies of microswimming, simple force-dipole models are commonplace,…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2022-11-08 Benjamin J. Walker , Kenta Ishimoto , Eamonn A. Gaffney

Waves are propagating disturbances that redistribute energy across space. Previous studies have shown that for waves propagating through an inhomogeneously moving mean flow, the conserved quantity is wave action rather than wave energy,…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2025-04-29 Zhaohua Wu , Jie Sun , Zhe-Min Tan , Ming Cai , Yongyun Hu , Norden E. Huang