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Related papers: Phase-resolved modelling of wave transformation in…

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Rough rocky seabeds dominate world's coastlines, making accurate modeling of wave transformation in such environments essential for understanding coastal processes and hazards. Wave breaking and friction are critical drivers of wave…

The modeling of wave breaking dissipation in coastal areas is investigated with a fully nonlinear and dispersive wave model. The wave propagation model is based on potential flow theory, which initially assumes non-overturning waves.…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2019-12-05 Bruno Simon , Christos E. Papoutsellis , Michel Benoit , Marissa L. Yates

Wave shoaling of water waves over mild bottom slopes is well described by linearized theories. However, the analytical treatment of nonlinear wave shoaling subject to rapidly varying bottoms has proven to be elusive in the past decades. As…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2023-08-25 Saulo Mendes

New parameterizations for the spectra dissipation of wind-generated waves are proposed. The rates of dissipation have no predetermined spectral shapes and are functions of the wave spectrum and wind speed and direction, in a way consistent…

The influence of surface roughness on transition to turbulence in a Mach 4.5 boundary layer is studied using direct numerical simulations. Transition is initiated by the nonlinearly most dangerous inflow disturbance, which causes the…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2023-07-19 Reza Jahanbakhshi , Tamer A. Zaki

Wave breaking is a critical process in the upper ocean: an energy sink for the surface wave field and a source for turbulence in the ocean surface boundary layer. We apply a novel multi-layer numerical solver resolving upper-ocean dynamics…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2025-10-13 Jiarong Wu , Stéphane Popinet , Bertrand Chapron , J. Thomas Farrar , Luc Deike

We calculate the rate of ocean waves energy dissipation due to whitecapping by numerical simulation of deterministic phase resolving model for dynamics of ocean surface. Two independent numerical experiments are performed. First, we solve…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2022-06-03 A. O. Korotkevich , A. O. Prokofiev , V. E. Zakharov

Direct numerical simulations of turbulent channels with rough walls are conducted in the transitionally rough regime. The effect that roughness produces on the overlying turbulence is studied using a modified triple decomposition of the…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2020-07-21 Nabil Abderrahaman-Elena , Chris T. Fairhall , Ricardo García-Mayoral

Surface roughness significantly impacts transition to turbulence, especially over high-speed, blunt geometries where surface ablation is necessary to mitigate heat loads during atmospheric entry. Inspired by sand-grain roughness experiments…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2026-02-04 Sean Dungan , Mateus Braga , Robyn Macdonald , Christoph Brehm

Wave shape (i.e. skewness or asymmetry) plays an important role in beach morphology evolution, remote sensing, and ship safety. Wind's influence on ocean waves has been extensively studied theoretically in the context of growth, but most…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2020-10-02 Thomas Zdyrski , Falk Feddersen

The present study focuses on direct numerical simulations of breaking waves generated by a wave plate at constant water depths. The aim is to quantify the dynamics and kinematics in the breaking process, together with the air entrainment…

Turbulent flows above a solid surface are characterised by a hydrodynamic roughness that represents, for the far velocity field, the typical length scale at which momentum mixing occurs close to the surface. Here, we are theoretically…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2023-11-07 Pan Jia , Bruno Andreotti , Philippe Claudin

In this paper, we investigate the effect of boundary surface roughness on numerical simulations of incompressible fluid flow past a cylinder in two and three spatial dimensions furnished with slip boundary conditions. The governing…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2025-11-05 Matthias Maier , Peter Munch , Murtazo Nazarov

On the basis of the author's earlier results, a new source function for a numerical wind-wave model optimized by the criterion of accuracy and speed of calculation is substantiated. The proposed source function includes (a) an optimized…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2010-06-30 Vladislav Polnikov

Rapid acceleration and burst maneuvers in underwater robots depend less on maintaining precise resonance and more on force--velocity phase alignment during thrust generation. In this work, we investigate constrained-layer damping (CLD) as a…

Robotics · Computer Science 2026-03-05 Qimin Feng , Orion A. Roberts , Qiang Zhong

This paper generalizes existing approaches for free-surface wave damping via momentum sinks for flow simulations based on the Navier-Stokes equations. It is shown in 2D flow simulations that, to obtain reliable wave damping, the…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2017-05-22 Robinson Peric , Moustafa Abdel-Maksoud

This paper presents a novel quantification of the fraction of broken waves (Qb) in natural surf zones using data from seven wave-dominated Australian beaches. Qb is a critical, but rarely quantified, parameter for parametric surf zone…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2020-02-19 Caio E. Stringari , Hannah E. Power

Analysing the impact of bottom friction on shallow water waves over bottom terrains is important in areas including environmental and coastal engineering as well as the oceanic and atmospheric sciences. However, current theoretical…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2023-06-28 Chang Liu , Antwan D. Clark

We consider a smooth forward facing step defined by the Gauss error function of height 4-30\% and four times the width of the local boundary layer thickness $\delta_{99}$. The boundary layer flow over a smooth forward-facing stepped plate…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2016-03-11 Hui Xu , Jean-Eloi W. Lombard , Spencer J. Sherwin

In finite-volume-based flow-simulations with free-surface waves, wave reflections at the domain boundaries can cause substantial errors in the results and must therefore be minimized. This can be achieved via `implicit relaxation zones',…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2021-03-09 Robinson Perić , Vuko Vukčević , Moustafa Abdel-Maksoud , Hrvoje Jasak
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