Related papers: Surface Wave-Aerodynamic Roughness Length Model fo…
An experimental model of transmission of ocean waves by an ice floe is presented. Thin plastic plates with different material properties and thicknesses are used to model the floe. Regular incident waves with different periods and…
The propagation of a surface acoustic wave (SAW) on GaAs/AlGaAs heterostructures is studied in the case where the two-dimensional electron gas (2DEG) is subject to a strong magnetic field and a smooth random potential with correlation…
Hammack & Segur (1978) conducted a series of surface water-wave experiments in which the evolution of long waves of depression was measured and studied. This present work compares time series from these experiments with predictions from…
We study the propagation of shear horizontal (SH) acoustic waves in a quartz elastic plate in contact with a viscous fluid layer of a finite thickness as an acoustic wave sensor for measuring fluid viscosity or density. The first order…
The propagation of surface water waves interacting with a current and an uneven bottom is studied. Such a situation is typical for ocean waves where the winds generate currents in the top layer of the ocean. The role of the bottom…
The various patterns of internal solitary wave interactions are complex phenomena in the ocean, susceptible to the influence of shear flow and density distributions. Satellite imagery serves as an effective tool for investigating these…
We present results from an instrument combining surface acoustic wave (SAW) propagation and surface plasmon resonance (SPR) measurements. The objective is to use two independent methods, the former based on adsorbed mass change measurements…
We investigate the feasibility and accuracy of a machine learning model to predict the dynamics of a gas pocket that is formed when a breaking wave impacts on a solid wall. The proposed ML model is based on the convolutional long short-term…
Studies in the literature on plane turbulent wall jets on flat surfaces, have invariably considered either the nozzle initial conditions or the asymptotic conditions far downstream, as scaling parameters for the streamwise variations of…
Equations relating the pressure at a horizontal seabed, the free-surface profile and the surface-pressure are derived for two-dimensional irrotational steady water waves with arbitrary pressure at the free surface. Special cases include…
Wave propagation in one-dimensional heterogeneous bistable media is studied using the Schl\"ogl model as a representative example. Starting from the analytically known traveling wave solution for the homogeneous medium, infinitely extended,…
The impact of a turbulent flow on wind-driven oceanic near-inertial waves is examined using a linearised shallow-water model of the mixed layer. Modelling the flow as a homogeneous and stationary random process with spatial scales…
Two-dimensional free-surface potential flows of an ideal fluid over a strongly inhomogeneous bottom are investigated with the help of conformal mappings. Weakly-nonlinear and exact nonlinear equations of motion are derived by the…
The surface gravity wave evolution, imitating tsunamis triggered by the ocean floor's arbitrary temporal motion over a generic seafloor topography, is investigated using the linearised water wave theory of a compressible ocean. The…
The interaction of an object with an unsteady flow is non-trivial and is still far from being fully understood. When an airfoil or hydrofoil, for example, undergoes time-dependent motion, nonlinear flow phenomena such as dynamic stall can…
The impact of shoaling on linear water waves is well-known, but it has only been recently found to significantly amplify both the intensity and frequency of rogue waves in nonlinear irregular wave trains atop coastal shoals. At least…
We report on the retrieval of directional sea surface roughness, in terms of its full directional mean square slope (including direction and isotropy), from Global Navigation Satellite System Reflections (GNSS-R) Delay-Doppler-Map (DDM)…
The physics of swash i.e. a layer of water that washes up on the beach after an incoming wave has broken is complicated and intriguing. It includes perplexed hydrodynamic and sediment transport events. In our paper we address to the…
A century after Prandtl's mixing length hypothesis, full-profile scaling of the mixing length in pressure-gradient turbulent boundary layers (PG TBLs) remains debated, especially for adverse pressure gradients (APGs). This work presents a…
A simple generalization of the Swift-Hohenberg equation is proposed as a model for the pattern-forming dynamics of a two-dimensional field with two unstable length scales. The equation is used to study the dynamics of surface waves in a…