Related papers: Discovering Boundary Equations for Wave Breaking u…
Wave breaking is an important process for energy dissipation in the open ocean and coastal seas. It drives beach morphodynamics, controls air-sea interactions, determines when ship and offshore structure operations can occur safely, and…
Big data and large-scale machine learning have had a profound impact on science and engineering, particularly in fields focused on forecasting and prediction. Yet, it is still not clear how we can use the superior pattern matching abilities…
Wave breaking is a critical process in the upper ocean: an energy sink for the surface wave field and a source for turbulence in the ocean surface boundary layer. We apply a novel multi-layer numerical solver resolving upper-ocean dynamics…
Wave breaking injects turbulence and bubbles into the upper ocean, modulating air-sea exchange of momentum, heat, gases, and sea-spray aerosols. These fluxes depend nonlinearly on sea state but remain poorly represented in coupled…
Internal waves, or waves that propagate within a stratified fluid, may break and cause mixing. While each individual mixing event may be small, collectively, internal wave breaking drive processes in the ocean that are critical to…
A~machine learning framework is developed to estimate ocean-wave conditions. By supervised training of machine learning models on many thousands of iterations of a physics-based wave model, accurate representations of significant wave…
Sea wave monitoring is key in many applications in oceanography such as the validation of weather and wave models. Conventional in situ solutions are based on moored buoys whose measurements are often recognized as a standard. However,…
This paper presents a new numerical model based on the highly nonlinear potential flow theory for simulating the propagation of water waves in variable depth. A new set of equations for estimating the surface vertical velocity is derived…
Underwater acoustic environment estimation is a challenging but important task for remote sensing scenarios. Current estimation methods require high signal strength and a solution to the fragile echo labeling problem to be effective. In…
Recent increases in computing power have enabled the numerical simulation of many complex flow problems that are of practical and strategic interest for naval applications. A noticeable area of advancement is the computation of turbulent,…
Time-dependent wave equations represent an important class of partial differential equations (PDE) for describing wave propagation phenomena, which are often formulated over unbounded domains. Given a compactly supported initial condition,…
Existing theoretical results for attenuation of surface waves propagating on water of random fluctuating depth are shown to over predict the rate of decay due to the way in which ensemble averaging is performed. A revised approach is…
The aim of the present work is to develop a model able to represent the propagation and transformation of waves in nearshore areas. The focus is on the phenomena of wave breaking, shoaling and run-up. These different phenomena are…
The present study focuses on direct numerical simulations of breaking waves generated by a wave plate at constant water depths. The aim is to quantify the dynamics and kinematics in the breaking process, together with the air entrainment…
Waves can drastically transform a sea ice cover by inducing break-up over vast distances in the course of a few hours. However, relatively few detailed studies have described this phenomenon in a quantitative manner, and the process of sea…
The concept of symmetry breaking and the emergence of corresponding local order parameters constitute the pillars of modern day many body physics. The theory of quantum entanglement is currently leading to a paradigm shift in understanding…
This article is devoted to the proof of the well-posedness of a model describing waves propagating in shallow water in horizontal dimension $d=2$ and in the presence of a fixed partially immersed object. We first show that this…
This is a study of the Euler equations for free surface water waves in the case of varying bathymetry, considering the problem in the shallow water scaling regime. In the case of rapidly varying periodic bottom boundaries this is a problem…
Discovering governing equations from data, in particular high dimensional data, is challenging in various fields of science and engineering, and it has potential to revolutionise the science and technology in this big data era. This paper…
Controlling systems governed by partial differential equations is an inherently hard problem. Specifically, control of wave dynamics is challenging due to additional physical constraints and intrinsic properties of wave phenomena such as…