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Rogue wave formation and enhancement over coastal areas have been documented over the last decade. However, this recent knowledge is in apparent contradiction with the established observation of sub-Gaussian wave statistics near shallow…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2025-02-07 Saulo Mendes , Yuchen He , Jérôme Kasparian , Amin Chabchoub

We review the study of rogue waves and related instabilities in optical and oceanic environments, with particular focus on recent experimental developments. In optics, we emphasize results arising from the use of real-time measurement…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2019-12-24 J. M. Dudley , G. Genty , A. Mussot , A. Chabchoub , F. Dias

The impact of shoaling on linear water waves is well-known, but it has only been recently found to significantly amplify both the intensity and frequency of rogue waves in nonlinear irregular wave trains atop coastal shoals. At least…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2024-11-20 Jie Zhang , Saulo Mendes , Michel Benoit , Jérôme Kasparian

We show that rogue waves can be triggered naturally when a stable wave train enters a region of an opposing current flow. We demonstrate that the maximum amplitude of the rogue wave depends on the ratio between the current velocity, $ U_0…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2011-10-27 Miguel Onorato , Davide Proment , Alessandro Toffoli

Theoretical studies on the modulation of unidimensional regular waves over a flat bottom due to a current typically assign an asymmetry between the effects of opposing/following streams on the evolution of major sea variables, such as…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2026-01-27 Ina Teutsch , Saulo Mendes , Jerome Kasparian

We review recent progress in modeling the probability distribution of wave heights in the deep ocean as a function of a small number of parameters describing the local sea state. Both linear and nonlinear mechanisms of rogue wave formation…

Chaotic Dynamics · Physics 2012-07-11 L. H. Ying , Z. Zhuang , E. J. Heller , L. Kaplan

Ocean rogue waves are large and suddenly appearing surface gravity waves, which may cause severe damage to ships and other maritime structures. Despite years of research, the exact origin of rogue waves is still disputed. Linear…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2015-07-30 Simon Birkholz , Carsten Brée , Ivan Veselić , Ayhan Demircan , Günter Steinmeyer

We show experimentally that a stable wave propagating into a region characterized by an opposite current may become modulationaly unstable. Experiments have been performed in two independent wave tank facilities; both of them are equipped…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2014-07-30 A. Toffoli , T. Waseda , H. Houtani , T. Kinoshita , K. Collins , D. Proment , M. Onorato

In this essay we give an overview on the problem of rogue or freak wave formation in the ocean. The matter of the phenomenon is a sporadic occurrence of unexpectedly high waves on the sea surface. These waves cause serious danger for…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2017-03-30 Alexey Slunyaev , Ira Didenkulova , Efim Pelinovsky

There are many examples in physics of systems showing rogue wave behaviour, the generation of high amplitude events at low probability. Although initially studied in oceanography, rogue waves have now been seen in many other domains, with…

By means of the direct numerical simulation of directional waves on the surface of deep water it is shown that extreme waves can exhibit such asymmetry that the occurrence of deeper troughs is several times more likely on the wave rear…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2023-09-14 Alexey V. Slunyaev , Anna V. Kokorina

Recent results of numerical simulations of fully nonlinear evolutionary equations for long-crested deep-water waves are discussed, where formation of extreme waves was observed. Several examples demonstrate that three-dimensionality of the…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2011-08-19 V. P. Ruban

The shoaling of surface gravity waves has been acknowledged as a mechanism of rogue wave formation. This problem is generally reduced to water waves passing over a step, but non-equilibrium physics allows finite slopes to be considered.…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2022-12-19 Saulo Mendes , Jérôme Kasparian

We investigate the statistics of rogue waves occurring in the inverse cascade of surface gravity wave turbulence. In such statistically homogeneous, stationary and isotropic wave fields, low-frequency waves are generated by nonlinear…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2022-06-15 Guillaume Michel , Félicien Bonnefoy , Guillaume Ducrozet , Eric Falcon

Rogue waves are extreme and rare fluctuations of the wave field that have been discussed in many physical systems. Their presence substantially influences the statistical properties of an incoherent wave field. Their understanding is…

Pattern Formation and Solitons · Physics 2018-01-24 Rebecca El Koussaifi , Alexey Tikan , Alessandro Toffoli , Stephane Randoux , Pierre Suret , Miguel Onorato

Rogue waves are extreme ocean events characterized by the sudden formation of anomalously large crests, and remain an important subject of investigation in oceanography and mathematics. A central problem is to quantify the probability of…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2026-03-31 Massimiliano Berti , Ricardo Grande , Alberto Maspero , Gigliola Staffilani

The evolution of surface gravity waves is driven by nonlinear interactions that trigger an energy cascade similarly to the one observed in hydrodynamic turbulence. This process, known as wave turbulence, has been found to display anomalous…

Numerical simulations are used to discuss various aspects of "optical rogue wave" statistics observed in noise-driven fiber supercontinuum generation associated with highly incoherent spectra. In particular, we consider how long wavelength…

Optics · Physics 2015-05-19 Miro Erkintalo , Goëry Genty , John M. Dudley

We report direct observations of surface waves from a stereo camera system along with concurrent measurements of wind speed during an expedition across the Southern Ocean in the austral winter aboard South African icebreaker…

Rogue waves are known to occur on the ocean surface leading to significant damage to marine installations and compromising ship safety. Understanding the physical mechanisms responsible for extreme wave focusing is crucial in order to…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2024-08-14 Yuchen He , Amin Chabchoub
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